Abstract Book
Session 1
Abstract Book
Sponsored by
Sponsored by
Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
08h15- 08h30
Welcome Address
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
Coschem President 2025
08h30-09h00
Crocus Sativus, The Anti-Dandruff Revolution, Powered by Nature
Frederic Serres, Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
09h00–09h30
Advanced Curl Knowledge to the Next Level through Artificial Intelligence Approaches
Lumbidzani Moyo, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
09h30–10h00
Biotech Powered Biomimetic Bond Builder, Delivering a Vegan Keratin recharge at the Molecular Level to Elevate Hair Strength beyond Repair
Lesego Malepe, Croda, South Africa
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
08h15- 08h30
Welcome Address
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
Coschem President 2025
08h30-09h00
Crocus Sativus, The Anti-Dandruff Revolution, Powered by Nature
Frederic Serres, Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
09h00–09h30
Advanced Curl Knowledge to the Next Level through Artificial Intelligence Approaches
Lumbidzani Moyo, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
09h30–10h00
Biotech Powered Biomimetic Bond Builder, Delivering a Vegan Keratin recharge at the Molecular Level to Elevate Hair Strength beyond Repair
Lesego Malepe, Croda, South Africa
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10h00-10h03 Marketing slot
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10h03–10h30 TEA/COFFEE BREAK |
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Welcome Address
Marcel van Rooyen
Symrise, South Africa
Coschem President 2025
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Welcome to the opening of the 2025 Coschem Scientific Conference.
The theme of ‘Boujee Beauty: Intelligent Evolution’ was specifically selected to spark conversations, challenge assumptions and to inspire new ideas. In recent years, we have witnessed a remarkable shift in the cosmetic landscape, particularly influenced by the evolving preferences of beauty followers. The South African market, rich in diversity and culture, has become a melting pot of beauty trends that reflect not just style, but also authenticity and individuality. This year, we’ve seen a surge in the demand for cleaner beauty products, with consumers increasingly gravitating towards brands that prioritize sustainability and ethical sourcing. The awareness around ingredients is at an all-time high, and South Africans are eager to embrace products that are not only luxurious but also kind to our planet. The rise of inclusivity in the beauty industry is a trend that cannot be overlooked. South Africa’s unique tapestry of skin tones and textures has prompted brands to expand their shade ranges and formulations. We are witnessing a beautiful evolution where beauty is no longer a one-size-fits-all concept, but rather a celebration of unique identities. This is an exciting time for our industry, as we embrace the richness of our heritage and the individuality of every consumer. |
Furthermore, the digital landscape has transformed how we engage with beauty. The power of social media, influencer marketing, and e-commerce has created a dynamic platform where trends can spread like wildfire. In South Africa, we have seen local influencers rise to prominence, showcasing homegrown brands and fostering a sense of community among beauty lovers. This digital shift not only enhances brand visibility but also drives consumer trust and loyalty.
Over the next two days, we’ll be hearing from industry experts, researchers, visionaries and beauty followers about how we can push the boundaries of what is possible. We will explore topics from the future of skin care, the power of AI and the role of sustainable care in a conscious world.
This conference is a space for us to learn, to connect and to collaborate. I encourage you to engage with the speakers, participate in the discussions and connect with your fellow delegates.
Let the exploration of ‘Boujee Beauty: Intelligent Evolution’ begin!
Over the next two days, we’ll be hearing from industry experts, researchers, visionaries and beauty followers about how we can push the boundaries of what is possible. We will explore topics from the future of skin care, the power of AI and the role of sustainable care in a conscious world.
This conference is a space for us to learn, to connect and to collaborate. I encourage you to engage with the speakers, participate in the discussions and connect with your fellow delegates.
Let the exploration of ‘Boujee Beauty: Intelligent Evolution’ begin!
Crocus Sativus, The Anti-Dandruff Revolution,
Powered by Nature
08h30-09h00
Frederic Serres
Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
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Frederic has a Master degree in Chemistry of Polymers & Biology of the French University of Lille, and has 20 years experience with several active ingredient manufacturers.
He works for Givaudan Active Beauty 7 for years and takes care specifically of the African & Middle East Region. He works actively with our partners from The Careco for the African territories. Abstract
The anti-dandruff revolution, powered by nature. Givaudan Active Beauty is delighted to introduce Crocus Sativus Flower Extract (“Crocus Sativus”), a botanical active designed to eradicate dandruff and restore scalp health. This unique molecule is crafted by Green Fractionation from the petals of Crocus sativus L., commonly known as saffron, sustainably sourced in Morocco.
Dandruff is a widespread scalp condition, resulting in oily yellow flakes, itching and often, inflammation. Malassezia overgrowth is a key causal factor for this condition. Although naturally present in the skin microbiota, environmental factors can upset this balance, triggering the onset of dandruff. Crocus Sativus revolutionizes dandruff care by addressing both the root causes and symptoms of dandruff with a comprehensive mode of action: ● Inhibiting the growth of Malassezia ● Reducing inflammation and erythema ● Mitigating itching and scalp discomfort ● Restoring the barrier function of the skin and scalp ● Balancing the microbiome for long-lasting anti-dandruff effects |
Clinical trials demonstrate that Crocus Sativus rivals leading anti-dandruff shampoos, achieving up to a 95% reduction in dandruff within 3 days for all participants.
By rebalancing the scalp microbiome, it effectively soothes itching and inflammation while preventing rebound effects. Notably, its benefits last beyond the treatment, with dandruff continuing to reduce even two weeks after stopping treatment. This long-lasting efficacy is attributed to its ability to stabilize the scalp Interabiome and selectively target Malassezia.
Crocus Sativus is a 100% natural origin, low-carbon botanical active developed as part of our circular beauty strategy. Selected from hundreds of candidates, it harnesses the power of precious, potent, and rare upcycled crocus flowers, infused with unique molecules. Crocus Sativus is the only sustainable and revolutionary dandruff solution.
By rebalancing the scalp microbiome, it effectively soothes itching and inflammation while preventing rebound effects. Notably, its benefits last beyond the treatment, with dandruff continuing to reduce even two weeks after stopping treatment. This long-lasting efficacy is attributed to its ability to stabilize the scalp Interabiome and selectively target Malassezia.
Crocus Sativus is a 100% natural origin, low-carbon botanical active developed as part of our circular beauty strategy. Selected from hundreds of candidates, it harnesses the power of precious, potent, and rare upcycled crocus flowers, infused with unique molecules. Crocus Sativus is the only sustainable and revolutionary dandruff solution.
Advanced Curl Knowledge to the Next Level through
Artificial Intelligence Approaches
09h00–09h30
Lumbidzani Moyo
L’Oréal Research and Innovation, South Africa
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Lumbi is an accomplished scientist and innovator with expertise in material science, cosmetic product development and product evaluation.
Her experience spans nanomaterials and cosmetic research at the CSIR, where she developed numerous technologies, to spearheading haircare advancements at Croda Africa and driving business development at Novozymes across South and East Africa. She currently serves as Head of Clinical & Physics Science at L'Oréal R&I Sub-Saharan Africa. Abstract
Introduction
Understanding the structural characteristics of curls is essential for developing effective hair care products. This research introduces a novel, scientific method for characterizing curl patterns, moving beyond subjective classifications based on ethnicity. This approach aims to advance curl knowledge by focusing on full hair swatches rather than individual fibers and addressing consumer needs related to curl management. Materials Advanced imaging techniques, including SR-microtomography with AI reconstruction, were used to create 3D visualizations of curly hair swatches (CP4 and CP6, representing different curl patterns). Image analysis tools were used to quantify hair density, fiber curvature radii, and fiber-fiber interactions (contact length and density). |
Results
The study revealed that hair density significantly decreases in tighter curl patterns. CP6 swatches exhibited a hair density approximately five times smaller than CP4 swatches. Fiber curvature analysis showed a narrow range of curvature radii in CP4 curls, while CP6 curls displayed a broader spectrum, indicating curl co-existence within tighter curl patterns. This variation in curvature impacts how hair fibers occupy space within a swatch. Analysis of fiber interactions demonstrated shorter contact lengths and higher contact density in CP6 swatches compared to CP4, suggesting differences in fiber entanglement. These findings indicate that fiber-fiber interactions are a key descriptor of curl definition.
Conclusion
This research presents a novel approach to curl characterization based on quantifiable swatch characteristics. The findings highlight the relationship between curl pattern, hair density, fiber curvature, and fiber interactions. These insights provide a scientific basis for understanding the structural differences between curl types. This new understanding can inform the development of targeted hair care solutions, addressing specific consumer needs and improving the efficacy of detangling and styling products for diverse curl patterns. Future directions include deeper characterization of local curvature, shape, orientation, twists, and entanglement mapping to refine our understanding and optimize product development.
Methods
By combining two cutting-edge approaches, X-ray µ-tomography and artificial intelligence, we have
succeeded for the first time in fully reconstructing hair strands of different curvatures in 3D.
This novel approach allows us to extract new hair descriptors, such as density of fibers per cm²,
• The curvature of the hair at each point, for all the hairs in the strand.
• The length of contacts (entanglement).
• The density of these contacts.
These parameters will allow us to improve our understanding of the different hair typologies and
generate a map of entanglements. The goal is to clarify the nature of knots in curly hair.
This data will also feed a numerical model developed in collaboration with INRIA. This model will
help us to transform this knowledge into a new concept by identifying the hair physical parameters
to be targeted in order to:
• Untangle existing knots.
• Prevent the formation of new knots.
This crucial knowledge will foster the development of new concepts and products specifically
designed to facilitate the detangling of curls for consumers with type CP5+ hair.
The study revealed that hair density significantly decreases in tighter curl patterns. CP6 swatches exhibited a hair density approximately five times smaller than CP4 swatches. Fiber curvature analysis showed a narrow range of curvature radii in CP4 curls, while CP6 curls displayed a broader spectrum, indicating curl co-existence within tighter curl patterns. This variation in curvature impacts how hair fibers occupy space within a swatch. Analysis of fiber interactions demonstrated shorter contact lengths and higher contact density in CP6 swatches compared to CP4, suggesting differences in fiber entanglement. These findings indicate that fiber-fiber interactions are a key descriptor of curl definition.
Conclusion
This research presents a novel approach to curl characterization based on quantifiable swatch characteristics. The findings highlight the relationship between curl pattern, hair density, fiber curvature, and fiber interactions. These insights provide a scientific basis for understanding the structural differences between curl types. This new understanding can inform the development of targeted hair care solutions, addressing specific consumer needs and improving the efficacy of detangling and styling products for diverse curl patterns. Future directions include deeper characterization of local curvature, shape, orientation, twists, and entanglement mapping to refine our understanding and optimize product development.
Methods
By combining two cutting-edge approaches, X-ray µ-tomography and artificial intelligence, we have
succeeded for the first time in fully reconstructing hair strands of different curvatures in 3D.
This novel approach allows us to extract new hair descriptors, such as density of fibers per cm²,
• The curvature of the hair at each point, for all the hairs in the strand.
• The length of contacts (entanglement).
• The density of these contacts.
These parameters will allow us to improve our understanding of the different hair typologies and
generate a map of entanglements. The goal is to clarify the nature of knots in curly hair.
This data will also feed a numerical model developed in collaboration with INRIA. This model will
help us to transform this knowledge into a new concept by identifying the hair physical parameters
to be targeted in order to:
• Untangle existing knots.
• Prevent the formation of new knots.
This crucial knowledge will foster the development of new concepts and products specifically
designed to facilitate the detangling of curls for consumers with type CP5+ hair.
Biotech Powered Biomimetic Bond Builder, Delivering a Vegan Keratin recharge at the Molecular Level to Elevate Hair Strength beyond Repair
09h30–10h00
Lesego Malepe
Croda, South Africa
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Lesego is a seasoned professional in the cosmetic and personal care industry with over a decade of experience spanning technical, formulation, and commercial roles. He holds an Honours Degree in Polymer Engineering from Tshwane University of Technology, complemented by a COSCHEM Diploma, reflecting his strong technical foundation and industry-specific expertise. Currently serving as an Account Manager at Croda, Lesego is responsible for managing and growing the South African market. His career journey began as an Applied Technology intern, where he developed a passion for formulation, eventually transitioning into technical sales within a leading multinational raw material supplier. Known for his innovative approach and deep understanding of formulation science, Lesego combines technical acumen with creativity. Outside of his professional pursuits, he is an avid lover of the arts, with a personal interest in dance, music, poetry, and continual product development. Abstract
Croda Beauty unveils a biotech-powered, biomimetic bond builder delivering pure, potent performance. Developed to mimic the structure and function of the hair’s natural keratin, this 99% natural peptide (ISO 16128) offers targeted repair and strengthening unlike traditional keratin-based products. Engineered to work in harmony with the hair’s biology, it enhances bond formation and boosts overall resilience. This innovation delivers a vegan keratin recharge at the molecular level, elevating hair strength beyond repair.
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Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]