Abstract Book
Sponsored by
|
07h30-08h00 Registration desk hosted by
|
|
07h30-08h00 Arrival Tea/Coffee
Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner
Skyem, South Africa
Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane
dsm-firmenich, South Africa
08h15- 08h30
Welcome Address
Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane
dsm-firmenich, South Africa
President, Coschem 2026
08h30-09h00
KEYNOTE SPEAKER
Demystifying Skin Care and
Cosmetics for the Next Generation'
Vivey Phasha
CSIR, South Africa
09h00–09h30
From Consumer Needs to Clinical Proof:
Building an African Beauty Ingredient
Toolbox Through Local Skin Research
Shannon Attwell
Symrise, South Africa
09h30–10h00
Multi-Targeted Therapeutic Potential of
Medicinal Plants in Skin Ageing and Repair
Karabelo Theledi
University of Pretoria, South Africa
10h00-10h03 Marketing slot
10h03–10h30 TEA/COFFEE BREAK hosted by
Beverley Gardner
Skyem, South Africa
Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane
dsm-firmenich, South Africa
08h15- 08h30
Welcome Address
Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane
dsm-firmenich, South Africa
President, Coschem 2026
08h30-09h00
KEYNOTE SPEAKER
Demystifying Skin Care and
Cosmetics for the Next Generation'
Vivey Phasha
CSIR, South Africa
09h00–09h30
From Consumer Needs to Clinical Proof:
Building an African Beauty Ingredient
Toolbox Through Local Skin Research
Shannon Attwell
Symrise, South Africa
09h30–10h00
Multi-Targeted Therapeutic Potential of
Medicinal Plants in Skin Ageing and Repair
Karabelo Theledi
University of Pretoria, South Africa
10h00-10h03 Marketing slot
10h03–10h30 TEA/COFFEE BREAK hosted by
Day 1 Session 1 | 08h15-08h30 | Welcome
Welcome Address
Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane, dsm-firmenich, South Africa
President, Coschem 2026
|
Good morning distinguished guests,
It is my great privilege, to welcome you all to this year’s Conference. A special welcome to our international speakers, industry partners, our sponsors and every delegate joining us over the next two days. This year’s programme is more than a collection of presentations, It tells a story. A story that moves through ingredient development, formulation, testing, manufacturing, regulatory excellence, sustainability and consumer understanding. Too often we think about our industry in isolated disciplines (The researcher, the supplier, manufacturer, regulatory specialist, the marketer, the retailer). But the truth is that none of us operates in isolation. Every innovation begins somewhere and succeeds because every part of the supply chain works together. That is where Coschem has always played an important role. We are one of the few organizations that truly connects the entire ecosystem. Our strength has never been in representing one sector of our industry. Our strength lies in bringing the entire value chain together around one shared purpose; to advance cosmetic science. |
This year’s programme reflects exactly that. Over the next two days we will explore breakthrough ingredient technologies, innovation, consumer behaviour, sustainability, clinical research, regulatory science, entrepreneurship and emerging technologies that are shaping the future of our industry. But perhaps even more importantly, we will explore these topics through an African lens. Africa is no longer simply a market. Africa is becoming a source of innovation.
Our continent offers extraordinary biodiversity, unique consumer insights, entrepreneurial talent and scientific excellence. We are seeing world class research emerging from our universities. African ingredients gaining international recognition, local manufacturers competing globally and we are seeing our scientists leading conversations that matter.
As Coschem, we believe the future of cosmetic science should not simply include Africa. It should be shaped by Africa. Our responsibility is to create opportunities where African science can flourish, where collaboration can thrive, where knowledge is shared openly and where innovation can move confidently from laboratory bench to retail shelf. That is what this year’s conference represents.
None of this would be possible without our dedicated members. Your commitment has ensured that Coschem continues to be a respected scientific society, committed to education, collaboration and professional excellence.
And that brings me to an exciting moment. Next year, Coschem celebrates an extraordinary milestone. Fifty years. Five decades of advancing cosmetic science. We stand today on foundations built by visionary leaders, dedicated volunteers and passionate members who believed in the value of scientific collaboration.
As we prepare to celebrate this golden anniversary, we also look to the future. The next fifty years call for even greater collaboration, greater innovation and greater inclusivity. Thank you, and I wish you an inspiring, engaging and memorable conference.
Our continent offers extraordinary biodiversity, unique consumer insights, entrepreneurial talent and scientific excellence. We are seeing world class research emerging from our universities. African ingredients gaining international recognition, local manufacturers competing globally and we are seeing our scientists leading conversations that matter.
As Coschem, we believe the future of cosmetic science should not simply include Africa. It should be shaped by Africa. Our responsibility is to create opportunities where African science can flourish, where collaboration can thrive, where knowledge is shared openly and where innovation can move confidently from laboratory bench to retail shelf. That is what this year’s conference represents.
None of this would be possible without our dedicated members. Your commitment has ensured that Coschem continues to be a respected scientific society, committed to education, collaboration and professional excellence.
And that brings me to an exciting moment. Next year, Coschem celebrates an extraordinary milestone. Fifty years. Five decades of advancing cosmetic science. We stand today on foundations built by visionary leaders, dedicated volunteers and passionate members who believed in the value of scientific collaboration.
As we prepare to celebrate this golden anniversary, we also look to the future. The next fifty years call for even greater collaboration, greater innovation and greater inclusivity. Thank you, and I wish you an inspiring, engaging and memorable conference.
Day 1 Session 1 | 08h30-09h00 | Keynote
Demystifying Skin Care and Cosmetics
for the Next Generation
Vivey Phasha
Council for Scientific and Industrial Research, South Africa
for the Next Generation
Vivey Phasha
Council for Scientific and Industrial Research, South Africa
|
Biography
Vivey is a Senior Researcher at the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR), South Africa, and a part-time lecturer for the Postgraduate Diploma in Cosmetic Product Formulation at North-West University. She is currently pursuing a PhD in Medical Sciences at the University of KwaZulu-Natal. She holds a Master of Medical Sciences (Medical Biochemistry) from the University of KwaZulu-Natal, a Postgraduate Diploma in Cosmetic Product Formulation (Cum Laude) from North-West University, an Honours degree in Formulation Sciences from Nelson Mandela University, and a Bachelor's degree in Chemistry from the University of Johannesburg. At the CSIR's Advanced Agriculture and Food Cluster, Ms. Phasha leads research on the development, formulation, and safety evaluation of cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. Her research focuses on harnessing South Africa's rich biodiversity to develop innovative, high-value products, including cosmetics, nutraceuticals, and African traditional medicines derived from indigenous plant resources. She is also passionate about supporting small, medium, and micro enterprises (SMMEs) by translating scientific research into commercially viable products. |
With more than a decade of research experience, having joined the CSIR as a Chemistry intern in 2013, Ms. Phasha has established expertise in natural product research, extraction and characterization of bioactive compounds, cosmetic formulation, and product safety evaluation. She is a published author with a strong commitment to advancing evidence-based cosmetic science, innovation, and skills development within the South African cosmetics industry
Abstract
The skincare and cosmetics landscape is evolving rapidly, driven by scientific innovation, changing consumer expectations, digital influence, and a growing demand for transparency and sustainability. Today's consumers are more informed and engaged than ever before. Yet, they are also navigating an overwhelming volume of information, making it increasingly difficult to distinguish evidence-based skincare from marketing narratives and social media trends. This dynamic presents both a challenge and an opportunity for the cosmetics industry.
This keynote explores how industry, researchers, healthcare professionals, and consumers can work together to build a future in which cosmetic innovation is underpinned by science, safety, and trust. It will examine the science behind healthy skin, the importance of evidence-based formulation, and the role of responsible product claims and consumer education in supporting informed decision-making. The presentation will also discuss emerging trends, including personalised skincare, biotechnology, artificial intelligence, sustainable formulation, and the growing interest in naturally derived ingredients, highlighting both their potential and the need for scientific validation.
Drawing on South Africa's rich biodiversity and advances in cosmetic research, the keynote will showcase opportunities to develop innovative, globally competitive products while promoting sustainability and value addition. It will also emphasize the shared responsibility of manufacturers, formulators, regulators, retailers, healthcare professionals, and consumers in fostering a cosmetics industry that prioritises efficacy, transparency, and ethical innovation.
Ultimately, demystifying skincare is not about simplifying the science; it is about making scientific knowledge more accessible, enabling consumers to make informed choices, and supporting an industry that earns confidence through evidence rather than hype. By strengthening the connection between cosmetic science, innovation, and consumer understanding, the industry can build lasting trust while inspiring the next generation of responsible skincare and cosmetic innovation.
The skincare and cosmetics landscape is evolving rapidly, driven by scientific innovation, changing consumer expectations, digital influence, and a growing demand for transparency and sustainability. Today's consumers are more informed and engaged than ever before. Yet, they are also navigating an overwhelming volume of information, making it increasingly difficult to distinguish evidence-based skincare from marketing narratives and social media trends. This dynamic presents both a challenge and an opportunity for the cosmetics industry.
This keynote explores how industry, researchers, healthcare professionals, and consumers can work together to build a future in which cosmetic innovation is underpinned by science, safety, and trust. It will examine the science behind healthy skin, the importance of evidence-based formulation, and the role of responsible product claims and consumer education in supporting informed decision-making. The presentation will also discuss emerging trends, including personalised skincare, biotechnology, artificial intelligence, sustainable formulation, and the growing interest in naturally derived ingredients, highlighting both their potential and the need for scientific validation.
Drawing on South Africa's rich biodiversity and advances in cosmetic research, the keynote will showcase opportunities to develop innovative, globally competitive products while promoting sustainability and value addition. It will also emphasize the shared responsibility of manufacturers, formulators, regulators, retailers, healthcare professionals, and consumers in fostering a cosmetics industry that prioritises efficacy, transparency, and ethical innovation.
Ultimately, demystifying skincare is not about simplifying the science; it is about making scientific knowledge more accessible, enabling consumers to make informed choices, and supporting an industry that earns confidence through evidence rather than hype. By strengthening the connection between cosmetic science, innovation, and consumer understanding, the industry can build lasting trust while inspiring the next generation of responsible skincare and cosmetic innovation.
Day 1 Session 1 | 09h00-09h30
From Consumer Needs to Clinical Proof: Building an African Beauty
Ingredient Toolbox Through Local Skin Research
Shannon Attwell
Symrise, South Africa
Ingredient Toolbox Through Local Skin Research
Shannon Attwell
Symrise, South Africa
|
Biography
With over eight years of experience in the hair care and cosmetic formulation industry, Shannon has contributed to the development of innovative and sustainable solutions tailored to curly hair types. In July 2025, she joined Symrise in the Cosmetic Ingredients Division as an Application Technologist, where she focuses on the application of advanced ingredient technologies for the African market. Abstract The African beauty and personal care market is experiencing significant growth, driven by increasing urbanisation, rising disposable income, expanding retail access and growing consumer engagement with skincare and beauty products.1 Despite this growth, relatively few published cosmetic efficacy studies have been conducted on African populations, particularly individuals with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV–VI residing in Africa. Consequently, a gap remains between the skin benefits most valued by African consumers and the locally generated scientific evidence available to support cosmetic product development and substantiation. South African consumer research conducted in 2025 identified healthy, comfortable skin (77.3%), even, spotless skin (64.1%), smooth, even skin texture (63.3%) and radiant/glowing skin (61%) as the skin benefits consumers are most willing to pay a premium for.2 These findings highlight the importance of generating clinically substantiated evidence for skin hydration, complexion uniformity and overall skin appearance and feel in populations representative of African consumers. |
We conducted series of in vivo studies in South Africa, on subjects with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV–VI. The studies investigated key consumer-relevant skin parameters including skin hydration, skin condition, skin tone uniformity, sebum regulation and body odour management. A range of validated instrumental and sensory methodologies were used, including Corneometry to assess skin hydration, Sebumetry to quantify sebum levels, colourimetric and image analysis techniques to evaluate complexion uniformity and visible skin appearance, as well as sensory assessments and consumer self-evaluation to determine perceived product performance and skin feel.
The studies demonstrated statistically significant improvements across multiple biological skin parameters. Hydration studies showed immediate and sustained increases in skin moisture levels for up to 48 hours following application. A Postbiotic-based formulation demonstrated improvements in both skin hydration and overall skin condition. Skin tone studies showed measurable improvements in complexion uniformity and reductions in uneven skin appearance. Sebum regulation studies demonstrated significant reductions in sebum production, visible oiliness and active pore appearance. Additional body odour studies demonstrated effective deodorant performance together with positive consumer perception outcomes in subjects with darker skin tones.
Collectively, these clinically measured outcomes align closely with the benefits most valued by South African consumers and provide objective evidence supporting improvements in skin comfort, skin appearance and overall skin wellbeing. These findings highlight the importance of generating efficacy data directly on African populations to complement global cosmetic research and ensure local relevance. By linking consumer needs with locally generated clinical evidence, this work demonstrates how African skin research can support the development of scientifically substantiated cosmetic solutions and contribute to a more representative understanding of cosmetic performance in African consumers.
References
1. Euromonitor International (2025) Eyes on Africa 2025: Unlocking Consumer Goods Growth Opportunities in Africa. Webinar presentation, October 2025. Euromonitor International.
2. Consumer Insights and Claims Study (CICS) (2025) For which of the following benefits are you willing to pay more? Up to 5 answers. South Africa consumer survey, 2025. Unpublished internal market research.
The studies demonstrated statistically significant improvements across multiple biological skin parameters. Hydration studies showed immediate and sustained increases in skin moisture levels for up to 48 hours following application. A Postbiotic-based formulation demonstrated improvements in both skin hydration and overall skin condition. Skin tone studies showed measurable improvements in complexion uniformity and reductions in uneven skin appearance. Sebum regulation studies demonstrated significant reductions in sebum production, visible oiliness and active pore appearance. Additional body odour studies demonstrated effective deodorant performance together with positive consumer perception outcomes in subjects with darker skin tones.
Collectively, these clinically measured outcomes align closely with the benefits most valued by South African consumers and provide objective evidence supporting improvements in skin comfort, skin appearance and overall skin wellbeing. These findings highlight the importance of generating efficacy data directly on African populations to complement global cosmetic research and ensure local relevance. By linking consumer needs with locally generated clinical evidence, this work demonstrates how African skin research can support the development of scientifically substantiated cosmetic solutions and contribute to a more representative understanding of cosmetic performance in African consumers.
References
1. Euromonitor International (2025) Eyes on Africa 2025: Unlocking Consumer Goods Growth Opportunities in Africa. Webinar presentation, October 2025. Euromonitor International.
2. Consumer Insights and Claims Study (CICS) (2025) For which of the following benefits are you willing to pay more? Up to 5 answers. South Africa consumer survey, 2025. Unpublished internal market research.
Day 1 Session 1 | 09h30-10h00
Multi-Targeted Therapeutic Potential of Medicinal Plantsin
Skin Ageing and Repair
Karabelo Theledi
Department of Plant and Soil Sciences, University of Pretoria, South Africa
Skin Ageing and Repair
Karabelo Theledi
Department of Plant and Soil Sciences, University of Pretoria, South Africa
|
Biography
Karabelo completed her National Senior Certificate (NSC) in 2020, matriculating as one of the top 10 candidates within the science stream. She obtained her qualification in Biotechnology in 2023. During her final year, she served as the student class representative class for a third year phytomedicine module, participated in a 2023 final-year mentorship programme. She also took part in volunteering work in the Plant Pathology Department. She continued with her studies and completed her Honours degree in Medicinal plants in 2024. She is currently a registered second year Master’s student in the Department of Plant and Soil Science where her research evaluates the multi-therapeutic potential of medicinal plants in skin allergies, ageing and repair. Karabelo is also a member of the, “African Plant Scientific Society”. To advance her current research, she visited China Medical University, under the College of Chinese Medicine and presented her finding at the 2025 Joint Academic Symposium on Natural Products: Advancing Tradition and Innovation in Chinese Medicine and Natural Products, in October. |
She is currently exploring patent opportunities for one of her plants, following promising scientific results. Additionally, she is co-authoring a chapter for the upcoming book titled Medicinal Plants for Skin Health: Scientific Insights and Home Formulations. Outside of her academic pursuits, Karabelo was crowned Miss Teen Icon (2018-2019), where she conducted some community service work, and was also part of the University of Pretoria’s faculty of Natural and Agricultural Science netball team.
Abstract
The skin is the largest organ of the body that protects the body and is renowned for its role in protection from environmental factors, maintaining homeostasis as well as hydration. Dermal matrix integrity is significantly dependent on the structure of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is primarily composed of collagen and elastin protein fibres. Elastin and collagen are two important proteins which provide the skin with strength and elasticity. These proteins are broken down by two proteolytic enzymes, collagenase and elastase. The upregulation and secretion of elastase and collagenase are primarily stimulated by inflammatory signalling, tissue injury, and extrinsic environmental stressors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which induces reactive oxygen species (ROS) and activates transcription pathways such as activator protein 1 (AP-1) and Nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB).
The accelerated breakdown of these proteins results in the degradation of the ECM, tissue damage, formation of wrinkles, premature ageing as well as impaired tissue repair. Current conventional cosmetic and dermatological treatments for skin ageing and impaired repair include chemical peeling, topical retinoids and silicon wound dressing. However, prolonged use of these treatments highly compromises the skin barrier. This leads to adverse side effects such as increased UV sensitivity, skin dryness and damage of healthy skin cells. This has led to an increased demand of plant-based dermatological therapies as safer and multi-functional alternatives for skin ageing and tissue damage.
This study aimed to determine the anti-ageing and regenerative potential of two medicinal plant extracts, Punicaceae sp. (PUC) and Nelumbo nucifera (NEL), which have been traditionally used for inflammation and skin hydration. Their anti-ageing efficacy was determined by assessing their inhibitory activity against elastase and collagenase enzymes. Additionally, an in vitro scratch wound healing assay was performed to evaluate the capacity of these plant extracts to promote skin repair and regeneration.
An anti-elastase assay was conducted on the ethanolic plant extracts which displayed significant inhibitory activity, yielding a 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 10.49 ± 4.74 μg/mL for PUC and 28.04 ± 9.50 μg/mL for NEL. Thereafter, an anti-collagenase assay was performed where both PUC and NEL displayed IC50 values of 27.99 ± 5.42 µg/mL and 3.62 ± 6.00 µg/mL respectively. A cytotoxicity assay was conducted on the Human Keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell line to evaluate the cytotoxicity of the plant extracts. Both plant extracts had IC50 values above the highest testing concentration (400 µg/mL), thus showing minimal to no toxicity. Finally, a scratch assay was performed at 50 and 25 µg/mL. At these concentrations, NEL produced wound closure percentages of 94.23 ± 1.20% and 90.22 ± 7.50% respectively, while PUC showed wound closure percentages of 81.57 ± 5.90% and 91.34 ± 0.50% respectively.
These results indicate that PUC and NEL are multi-functional and a source of highly promising plant-derived actives, highlighting their potential as natural anti-ageing and skin repair agents.
Abstract
The skin is the largest organ of the body that protects the body and is renowned for its role in protection from environmental factors, maintaining homeostasis as well as hydration. Dermal matrix integrity is significantly dependent on the structure of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is primarily composed of collagen and elastin protein fibres. Elastin and collagen are two important proteins which provide the skin with strength and elasticity. These proteins are broken down by two proteolytic enzymes, collagenase and elastase. The upregulation and secretion of elastase and collagenase are primarily stimulated by inflammatory signalling, tissue injury, and extrinsic environmental stressors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which induces reactive oxygen species (ROS) and activates transcription pathways such as activator protein 1 (AP-1) and Nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB).
The accelerated breakdown of these proteins results in the degradation of the ECM, tissue damage, formation of wrinkles, premature ageing as well as impaired tissue repair. Current conventional cosmetic and dermatological treatments for skin ageing and impaired repair include chemical peeling, topical retinoids and silicon wound dressing. However, prolonged use of these treatments highly compromises the skin barrier. This leads to adverse side effects such as increased UV sensitivity, skin dryness and damage of healthy skin cells. This has led to an increased demand of plant-based dermatological therapies as safer and multi-functional alternatives for skin ageing and tissue damage.
This study aimed to determine the anti-ageing and regenerative potential of two medicinal plant extracts, Punicaceae sp. (PUC) and Nelumbo nucifera (NEL), which have been traditionally used for inflammation and skin hydration. Their anti-ageing efficacy was determined by assessing their inhibitory activity against elastase and collagenase enzymes. Additionally, an in vitro scratch wound healing assay was performed to evaluate the capacity of these plant extracts to promote skin repair and regeneration.
An anti-elastase assay was conducted on the ethanolic plant extracts which displayed significant inhibitory activity, yielding a 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 10.49 ± 4.74 μg/mL for PUC and 28.04 ± 9.50 μg/mL for NEL. Thereafter, an anti-collagenase assay was performed where both PUC and NEL displayed IC50 values of 27.99 ± 5.42 µg/mL and 3.62 ± 6.00 µg/mL respectively. A cytotoxicity assay was conducted on the Human Keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell line to evaluate the cytotoxicity of the plant extracts. Both plant extracts had IC50 values above the highest testing concentration (400 µg/mL), thus showing minimal to no toxicity. Finally, a scratch assay was performed at 50 and 25 µg/mL. At these concentrations, NEL produced wound closure percentages of 94.23 ± 1.20% and 90.22 ± 7.50% respectively, while PUC showed wound closure percentages of 81.57 ± 5.90% and 91.34 ± 0.50% respectively.
These results indicate that PUC and NEL are multi-functional and a source of highly promising plant-derived actives, highlighting their potential as natural anti-ageing and skin repair agents.
|
|
|
|
|
Header - Microsoft Designer AI. Cosmetic, hyper realistic, simple and clean petri dish, blue, cosmetic jars and tubes, sciences, laboratory, ethnic female. Microsoft Designer, generated August 2024.
Microsoft Designer AI. Cosmetic manufacturing, hyper realistic, simple and clean petri dish, blue and green, cosmetic jars and tubes, lipsticks. Microsoft Designer, generated January 2025.
Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.
Microsoft Designer AI. Cosmetic manufacturing, hyper realistic, simple and clean petri dish, blue and green, cosmetic jars and tubes, lipsticks. Microsoft Designer, generated January 2025.
Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.