Abstract Book
Session 2
Abstract Book
Sponsored by
Sponsored by
Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Charmaine du Preez, Chempure, South Africa
10h30-11h00
East Asian Approach to Sensitive Skin
James Seguerra, Nikko Chemicals, Japan
11h00-11h30
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: The Clean Beauty Peptide That Activates Collagen for Lifelong Slow-Aging
Viviana Sanchez, dsm-firmenich, Dubai-United Arab Emirates
11h30–12h00
Next-Generation Soothing Active Ingredient of Natural Origin, designed for Sensitive Skin
Shannon Attwell, Symrise, South Africa
12h00-12h30
Inventing the Future of Beauty through to Green Sciences: Using Science to push the Frontiers of New performances and Reduce the Environmental Impact of Cosmetic Products
William Mokone, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Charmaine du Preez, Chempure, South Africa
10h30-11h00
East Asian Approach to Sensitive Skin
James Seguerra, Nikko Chemicals, Japan
11h00-11h30
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: The Clean Beauty Peptide That Activates Collagen for Lifelong Slow-Aging
Viviana Sanchez, dsm-firmenich, Dubai-United Arab Emirates
11h30–12h00
Next-Generation Soothing Active Ingredient of Natural Origin, designed for Sensitive Skin
Shannon Attwell, Symrise, South Africa
12h00-12h30
Inventing the Future of Beauty through to Green Sciences: Using Science to push the Frontiers of New performances and Reduce the Environmental Impact of Cosmetic Products
William Mokone, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
|
12h30-12h33 Marketing slot |
|
|
12h33-13h30
LUNCH BREAK Equinox Restaurant – 1st floor |
|
East Asian Approach to Sensitive Skin
10h30-11h00
James Seguerra
Nikko Chemicals, Japan
|
With over a decade of global sales experience at Nikko Chemicals, James currently contributes to the development of new products and the promotion strategy. He is a strong advocate for incorporating more scientific and rational thinking into the skincare industry.
Abstract
East Asian beauty-inclusive of Korean, Japanese, and Chinese brands, has garnered global recognition for its unique philosophy and practice. This presentation explores the East Asian approach to sensitive skin care from various perspectives:
1. ”Maintenance Core”: East Asian beauty emphasizes alterations to the skin barrier and hydration levels rather than immediate solutions for visible redness or irritation. 2. ”Ingredient Focus”: East Asian beauty prioritizes the utilization of ingredients rooted in traditional Chinese medicine and approved functional drugs to address and remedy sensitive skin. 3. ”In & Out”: East Asian beauty acknowledges the influence of inner well-being (mental or emotional) and the surrounding environment (including subtle changes in diet and lifestyle) on skin barrier health. 4. ”Texture as Function”: Emulsion design or skin delivery is employed as a means of conveying efficacy and enhancing the user experience for individuals with sensitive skin. 5. ”Future Perfect”: East Asian brands have demonstrated significant advancements in addressing concerns arising from the growing demand for skin procedures and treatments. Furthermore, there is an ongoing exploration of the application of artificial intelligence (AI) and big data to gain a deeper understanding of the ‘non-medical condition’ known as sensitive skin. |
|
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: The Clean Beauty Peptide That Activates Collagen for Lifelong Slow-Aging
11h00-11h30
Viviana Sanchez
dsm-firmenich, Dubai-United Arab Emirates
|
Viviana is a Colombian chemical engineer with an MBA and a specialization in Sales and Marketing. She has over 17 years of experience in the personal care industry, combining a strong technical background with extensive commercial expertise.
She began her career as a formulator for a distributor in Colombia, where she developed deep knowledge of cosmetic formulations and product development. Her passion for innovation and client collaboration led her to transition into commercial roles, where she has successfully managed key accounts and driven business growth. For the past nine years, Viviana has been based in Dubai, working across the Middle East region and building a strong understanding of its market dynamics and consumer needs. In September 2024, she joined dsm-firmenich as Senior Account Manager for Beauty & Care. Her role now covers the AMET region, and she is actively exploring and developing new opportunities in African markets. Viviana is passionate about bringing science-driven, sustainable solutions to the beauty industry and creating meaningful value for clients through strong partnerships and regional insights. Abstract
Consumers’ focus today has shifted from simply addressing visible signs of aging to a more holistic, long-term approach to beauty and wellness, aiming to target root causes to slow down the overall process. Skincare should use advanced science, like peptides, to support the skin’s natural regenerative processes from within.
|
|
Collagen is the major building block of the skin (~80%), and it has multiple roles, keeping the skin firm, plumped and supple, giving the skin strength and structure, and it is vital for maintaining elasticity. Collagen is produced by cells called fibroblasts, predominantly found in the dermis. Collagen I is the main type, widely believed to have major role into well-aging process.
With Aging, Collagen production slows naturally, and the degradation increases. As early as our 20s, collagen levels drop by about 1% per year, accelerating after 40. This leads to reduced skin elasticity, sagging, fine lines, and wrinkles.
dsm-firmenich creates peptides to bring Pharma-inspired skincare solutions, elevating skin health ambitions. The targeted approach, enhanced by molecular modeling (rational design), is supported by green chemistry science principles to generate groundbreaking, sustainable solutions proven to deliver the highest levels of efficacy towards well-aging.
In that way, dsm-firmenich has developed Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5. It is a natural-origin patented tripeptide with a unique amino acid sequence that mimics the skin’s own mechanism to produce and protect collagen, slowing down the aging process from within. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is obtained through improved optimized synthesis, according to green-chemistry principles, and is TFA-free (non-intentionally added).
Clinically proven, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 significantly supports the skin’s collagen reserves with age-personalized action and protects from UV-induced collagen degradation at concentrations as low as 1%. The skin is visibly firmer, smoother, and more sculpted with inclusive results across different ethnicities and phototypes.
As a resume, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, the clean beauty peptide
-is 1st TGF-β booster on the market: biohacking the skin to supports collagen’s reserves
-smooths skin and reduces wrinkles’ depth
-refines skin appearance with less visible pores
-boosts collagen & protect from UV-induced degradation
-reverses visible signs of photo-aging in just 4 weeks
-Sculpts face for a firmer, more lifted appearance
At dsm-firmenich, we create groundbreaking sustainable solutions that support skin health and empower individuals to maximize their own skin potential, at every stage of their life journey.
With Aging, Collagen production slows naturally, and the degradation increases. As early as our 20s, collagen levels drop by about 1% per year, accelerating after 40. This leads to reduced skin elasticity, sagging, fine lines, and wrinkles.
dsm-firmenich creates peptides to bring Pharma-inspired skincare solutions, elevating skin health ambitions. The targeted approach, enhanced by molecular modeling (rational design), is supported by green chemistry science principles to generate groundbreaking, sustainable solutions proven to deliver the highest levels of efficacy towards well-aging.
In that way, dsm-firmenich has developed Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5. It is a natural-origin patented tripeptide with a unique amino acid sequence that mimics the skin’s own mechanism to produce and protect collagen, slowing down the aging process from within. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is obtained through improved optimized synthesis, according to green-chemistry principles, and is TFA-free (non-intentionally added).
Clinically proven, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 significantly supports the skin’s collagen reserves with age-personalized action and protects from UV-induced collagen degradation at concentrations as low as 1%. The skin is visibly firmer, smoother, and more sculpted with inclusive results across different ethnicities and phototypes.
As a resume, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, the clean beauty peptide
-is 1st TGF-β booster on the market: biohacking the skin to supports collagen’s reserves
-smooths skin and reduces wrinkles’ depth
-refines skin appearance with less visible pores
-boosts collagen & protect from UV-induced degradation
-reverses visible signs of photo-aging in just 4 weeks
-Sculpts face for a firmer, more lifted appearance
At dsm-firmenich, we create groundbreaking sustainable solutions that support skin health and empower individuals to maximize their own skin potential, at every stage of their life journey.
Next-Generation Soothing Active Ingredient of
Natural Origin, designed for Sensitive Skin
11h30–12h00
Shannon Attwell
Symrise, South Africa
|
Shannon holds a Bachelor of Science in Biochemistry and Human Anatomy & Physiology from the University of Cape Town, and an Honours degree in Biochemistry from the University of South Africa. She also completed an Advanced Diploma in Cosmetic Formulation Science from the University of Cape Town Hair and Skin Research Lab.
With over seven years of experience in the hair care and cosmetic formulation industry, Shannon has contributed to the development of innovative and sustainable solutions tailored to curly hair types. In July 2025, she joined Symrise in the Cosmetic Ingredients Division as an Application Technologist, where she focuses on the application of advanced ingredient technologies for the African market. Abstract
Introduction
Modern lifestyles expose our skin to multiple stressors daily – from pollution and UV radiation to digital screens and changing climate conditions. These factors contribute significantly to skin sensitivity and ‘inflammaging’ (inflammation-induced ageing), affecting consumers worldwide. |
|
A Sustainable Innovation
The challenge achieved was to revolutionize skin soothing & sensitive skincare with a natural patented complex that synergistically combines biotechnology-derived bisabolol and organic ginger root extract to visibly and deeply soothe sensitive skin.
This innovation provides a powerful immediate and long-lasting relief from irritations, decreasing the appearance of redness and truly increasing skin comfort.
This synergistic blend is 100% Natural origin (NOC ISO 16128), helping to address the growing demand for effective natural solutions, inspired by sustainability. The biotechnology-derived bisabolol component is produced through precision fermentation, representing a new path for improving sustainability.
This new ingredient is designed to counteract the underlying causes of hypersensitivity at multiple levels, decreasing skin sensitivity, as well as preventing inflammaging by protecting collagen and targeting COL17A1 (new approach - gene involved in skin structure protection).
In this way, it helps cosmetic brands meet rising consumer demand for holistic skin soothing. Thanks to this synergy, it has also been proven to be more effective than bisabolol alone in several aspects.
Scientifically validated efficacy, powered by Artificial Intelligence
This innovative solution is backed by comprehensive scientific studies. Clinical tests show it reduces redness by 49% in just two days and begins soothing irritation within five minutes of application.
Thanks to an Artificial Intelligence learning model-based protocol, the ingredient has been objectivated in a reproducible way on its effect to decrease skin sensitivity, enabling broader claims to the market.
Beyond surface-level relief, the ingredient works at a cellular level by:
Conclusion
With its dual-action soothing mechanism targeting cytokines and lipid mediators, the powerful duo offers a holistic approach to sensitive skincare, delivering immediate comfort, well-being and long-term skin health.
The challenge achieved was to revolutionize skin soothing & sensitive skincare with a natural patented complex that synergistically combines biotechnology-derived bisabolol and organic ginger root extract to visibly and deeply soothe sensitive skin.
This innovation provides a powerful immediate and long-lasting relief from irritations, decreasing the appearance of redness and truly increasing skin comfort.
This synergistic blend is 100% Natural origin (NOC ISO 16128), helping to address the growing demand for effective natural solutions, inspired by sustainability. The biotechnology-derived bisabolol component is produced through precision fermentation, representing a new path for improving sustainability.
This new ingredient is designed to counteract the underlying causes of hypersensitivity at multiple levels, decreasing skin sensitivity, as well as preventing inflammaging by protecting collagen and targeting COL17A1 (new approach - gene involved in skin structure protection).
In this way, it helps cosmetic brands meet rising consumer demand for holistic skin soothing. Thanks to this synergy, it has also been proven to be more effective than bisabolol alone in several aspects.
Scientifically validated efficacy, powered by Artificial Intelligence
This innovative solution is backed by comprehensive scientific studies. Clinical tests show it reduces redness by 49% in just two days and begins soothing irritation within five minutes of application.
Thanks to an Artificial Intelligence learning model-based protocol, the ingredient has been objectivated in a reproducible way on its effect to decrease skin sensitivity, enabling broader claims to the market.
Beyond surface-level relief, the ingredient works at a cellular level by:
- Reducing inflammation mediators including IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α
- Enhancing COL17A1 gene expression, which is essential for maintaining skin’s structure and a youthful appearance
- Protecting collagen from environmental damage
- Boosting hyaluronic acid levels by 11%, improving skin’s moisture retention.
Conclusion
With its dual-action soothing mechanism targeting cytokines and lipid mediators, the powerful duo offers a holistic approach to sensitive skincare, delivering immediate comfort, well-being and long-term skin health.
Inventing the Future of Beauty through to Green Sciences: Using Science to push the Frontiers of New performances and Reduce the Environmental Impact of Cosmetic Products
12h00-12h30
William Mokone
L’Oréal Research and Innovation, South Africa
|
William has a PhD in chemistry in material science from the university of the Witwatersrand. He works for L’Oréal South Africa research and innovation division as an application domain scientist and international ingredient innovation department (d3i) representative. He works actively with various cosmetic ingredients suppliers and academic institutions in the South African territory for the identification and development of frontier cosmetic technologies.
Abstract
Introduction
The beauty industry faces increasing pressure to minimize its environmental impact and adopt sustainable practices through holistic approaches to integrating sustainability throughout the beauty product lifecycle. For about 20 years, new areas of research, based on what we call “Green Sciences”, have emerged and significantly changed the way we developed new products. Stemming from a double revolution in biology and new technologies, these sciences come from, are infused with, and are inspired by nature and the living world. They enable us to explore and develop an entire universe of molecules and materials which serve as biological vehicles for active ingredients. This revolution, the natural world augmented by technology, is at the heart of many new cosmetic research activities. Our Green Sciences initiative aims to respect planetary boundaries and improve the living conditions within its business ecosystem. |
|
Methods
The Green Sciences program encompasses sustainable sourcing, ingredient transformation, formulation, packaging, and consumer usage. The program focuses on bio-based ingredients, regenerative agriculture, abundant minerals, and ingredients derived from circular processes. It leverages green extraction, green chemistry, and biotechnology fermentation. Life cycle analysis (LCA) and product impact labeling are utilized to measure and communicate environmental performance.
Results
The implemented science-based targets aligned with planetary boundaries, addressing climate, water, biodiversity, and resource use. Sustainable sourcing practices prioritize regenerative agriculture and the use of abundant minerals. LCA informs product development, reducing environmental footprints across sourcing, packaging, manufacturing, distribution, usage, and end-of-life. Product impact labeling empowers consumers to make informed choices based on environmental performance. A product sustainability index (PSI) provides a comprehensive score reflecting overall environmental and social impact. Collaboration within the beauty industry is driving progress towards a more sustainable future.
Conclusion
The Green Sciences initiative demonstrates a commitment to transforming the beauty industry towards greater sustainability. By integrating green sciences throughout the value chain, from sourcing to consumer use, environmental impact is minimized, resource circularity is promoted, and consumers are empowered regarding the beauty solutions. Green Sciences will lead to major raw materials, active ingredients and formulation portfolio transformations. Scientific domains such as green extraction, green chemistry, or biotechnologies will serve as levers to improve our products creating formulas which respect the planet and reach new augmented and unequalled performances.
The Green Sciences program encompasses sustainable sourcing, ingredient transformation, formulation, packaging, and consumer usage. The program focuses on bio-based ingredients, regenerative agriculture, abundant minerals, and ingredients derived from circular processes. It leverages green extraction, green chemistry, and biotechnology fermentation. Life cycle analysis (LCA) and product impact labeling are utilized to measure and communicate environmental performance.
Results
The implemented science-based targets aligned with planetary boundaries, addressing climate, water, biodiversity, and resource use. Sustainable sourcing practices prioritize regenerative agriculture and the use of abundant minerals. LCA informs product development, reducing environmental footprints across sourcing, packaging, manufacturing, distribution, usage, and end-of-life. Product impact labeling empowers consumers to make informed choices based on environmental performance. A product sustainability index (PSI) provides a comprehensive score reflecting overall environmental and social impact. Collaboration within the beauty industry is driving progress towards a more sustainable future.
Conclusion
The Green Sciences initiative demonstrates a commitment to transforming the beauty industry towards greater sustainability. By integrating green sciences throughout the value chain, from sourcing to consumer use, environmental impact is minimized, resource circularity is promoted, and consumers are empowered regarding the beauty solutions. Green Sciences will lead to major raw materials, active ingredients and formulation portfolio transformations. Scientific domains such as green extraction, green chemistry, or biotechnologies will serve as levers to improve our products creating formulas which respect the planet and reach new augmented and unequalled performances.
|
|
|
|
|
Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]