Abstract Book
Session 3
Abstract Book
Sponsored by
Sponsored by
Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Poonam Sewraj, L'Oreal Research & Innovation, South Africa
13h30-14h00
Naturally derived Polymeric Emulsifier for Stable O/W Emulsions in Personal Care
Juan Cebrian, Lubrizol, Spain
14h00-14h30
Interview Session with Mantombi Makhubela
A skincare content creator and founder of SASEKILE COSMETICS
14h30-15h00
From Tradition to Toothpaste: South Africa’s Botanicals in Oral Cosmetics, Health and Innovation
Namrita Lall, University of Pretoria, South Africa
15h00-15h30
Plant based Multifunctional Toolbox
Aeysha Jakoet, Symrise, South Africa
15h30-16h00
Decoding Skin Tightness, from Clinical Parameters to Biomarkers: Ceramides as the New Target
Nasreen Matthews, L’Oréal Research and Innovation, South Africa
16h00-16h30
Microbiological Testing Methods - from Pasteurian to AI - Improving Production and QC
Hein Venter, Anatech Instrument, South Africa
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Poonam Sewraj, L'Oreal Research & Innovation, South Africa
13h30-14h00
Naturally derived Polymeric Emulsifier for Stable O/W Emulsions in Personal Care
Juan Cebrian, Lubrizol, Spain
14h00-14h30
Interview Session with Mantombi Makhubela
A skincare content creator and founder of SASEKILE COSMETICS
14h30-15h00
From Tradition to Toothpaste: South Africa’s Botanicals in Oral Cosmetics, Health and Innovation
Namrita Lall, University of Pretoria, South Africa
15h00-15h30
Plant based Multifunctional Toolbox
Aeysha Jakoet, Symrise, South Africa
15h30-16h00
Decoding Skin Tightness, from Clinical Parameters to Biomarkers: Ceramides as the New Target
Nasreen Matthews, L’Oréal Research and Innovation, South Africa
16h00-16h30
Microbiological Testing Methods - from Pasteurian to AI - Improving Production and QC
Hein Venter, Anatech Instrument, South Africa
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16h30-16h33 Marketing slot
END DAY 1 16h33 onwards Cocktail party & networking event Galileo Lounge, 2nd floor |
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Naturally Derived Polymeric Emulsifier for Stable
O/W Emulsions in Personal Care
13h30-14h00
Juan Cebrian
Lubrizol, Spain
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Juan, PhD in Organic Chemistry from the University of Barcelona, joined Lubrizol's Innovation team in 2001. There, he led the development of new active ingredients and delivery systems for cosmetics. He also led the Analysis department, after which he joined the functional ingredients development team for Skin Care. Currently, Juan is a Technical Fellow at Lubrizol and EMEA Senior Technical Service Scientist, specializing in Active Ingredients.
ABSTRACT
Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilization is a critical process in the formulation of cosmetic products. It involves using emulsifiers to reduce surface tension and maintain the dispersion of oil droplets within the water phase. However, some emulsifiers may strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation. They can also disrupt the skin’s barrier function, making it more susceptible to environmental stressors and allergens. Strategies such as using polymeric emulsifiers can mitigate irritation due to their unique structure and mechanism. These emulsifiers have a high molecular weight, which reduces their penetration into the skin, further decreasing the risk of irritation.
In today's trends, natural ingredients are gaining importance due to their eco-friendly appeal and consumer demand for clean beauty products. A newly developed natural-derived polymeric emulsifier, undecylenoyl xanthan gum, provides excellent stabilization while combining performance and sustainability. Its innovative structure ensures that with low use levels, rich lotions and creams can be achieved, offering light sensory feel, softness, and absence of stickiness. In addition to emulsion stability, undecylenoyl xanthan gum can also provide viscosity to the formulas and, when combined with other co-thickeners, a wide range of textures can be achieved, from sprayable formulations to thick creams textures. |
With a concentration between 0.5-1.5%, undecylenoyl xanthan gum can stabilize emulsions with an oil content ranging from 10% to 40% over a pH range of 3.5-8. It is compatible with organic and inorganic UV filters to create sun care formulations and pigments in color cosmetic formulations. Additionally, it stabilizes high concentrations of oils in surfactant systems, enhances oil deposition, provides exceptional foam richness, and boosts viscosity.
Interview Session
14h00-14h30
Mantombi Makhubela
A skincare content creator and Founder of
SASEKILE COSMETICS
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Mantombi, a 27 year old who has served 6 years in the social media and digital space creating an authoritative voice and using her social media presence to urge People of Colour (POC) to embrace their unique skin with confidence. She is on the forefront of sharing educational content around skincare for the everyday person to understand their skin needs. Growing up in a small town in Mpumalanga, Nelspruit, Mantombi had dreams of her own. She dabbled in a little bit of everything and obtained a degree in Community Development and Politics.
According to her, there was a profound sense of emptiness despite all these pursuits, and she found herself lacking motivation. In her quest to find her “muse,” Mantombi had to engage in deep introspection about what she truly desired to do. By taking something deeply personal, leveraging it, and dedicating countless hours to study and research, she embarked on a career dedicated to representing the unique skin care needs of POC and providing skincare solutions for Black women. She then set herself out on a quest to seek and research products that served POC so that she could recommend these skin products as solutions. A ‘victim’ of marketing, her first PR package was from a Korean skincare brand. Her career of ‘Skinfluencing’ was born when she saw and understood the gaps in the beauty industry and this fueled her passion to sharing educational content relevant to POP. |
Mantombi has worked with creditable brands both locally and internationally (L’Oreal, Garnier, Medik8, LaRoche Posay, Eucerin, Fenty Beauty, Avon, Clicks, Woolworths Beauty and Pastry Skincare) – to name just a few. This experience has assisted her to leave a remarkable and impactful footprint in the ‘skincare space’.
Mantombi further embarked and took the leap of faith in starting her very own cosmetics brand, SASEKILECOSMETICS that focuses on women who face daily challenges and conditions when it comes to body care.
She has featured in various digital magazines and has graced her audience in her first ever TV Show gig, The Sauce on SABC 1. She has been met with on-stage speaking engagement opportunities such as The Star ‘Choice is Yours’ Women’s Event and has featured in the following magazines: Modaculture, Sibizi and BONA. Mantombi Makhubela, without a doubt is making her mark in the skincare and beauty industry of South Africa.
Mantombi further embarked and took the leap of faith in starting her very own cosmetics brand, SASEKILECOSMETICS that focuses on women who face daily challenges and conditions when it comes to body care.
She has featured in various digital magazines and has graced her audience in her first ever TV Show gig, The Sauce on SABC 1. She has been met with on-stage speaking engagement opportunities such as The Star ‘Choice is Yours’ Women’s Event and has featured in the following magazines: Modaculture, Sibizi and BONA. Mantombi Makhubela, without a doubt is making her mark in the skincare and beauty industry of South Africa.
From Tradition to Toothpaste: South Africa’s Botanicals in Oral Cosmetics, Health and Innovation
14h30-15h00
Namrita Lall
University of Pretoria, South Africa
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Namrita is a Research Chair at the University of Pretoria and a globally recognized scientist in Pharmacology and Toxicology. She is listed in the top 1% of researchers by citation (Essential Science Indicators) and among the top 2% scientists globally by Stanford University. She holds adjunct professorships at the University of Missouri, USA, and JSSAHER, Mauritius.
Her research into medicinal plants has led to the development of internationally commercialized products targeting skin hyperpigmentation, ageing, liver protection, and more, with over 25 products nearing commercialization. She has also supported the formation of start-ups such as Valoren, Blyde Botanics, Scholareview, and Looksci through her mentorship of young postgraduates. Namrita has published over 200 research articles, contributed to more than 91 book chapters, registered 41 patents, and edited five books with leading publishers like Elsevier and Springer. She has received several prestigious awards, including South Africa’s highest honour, The Order of Mapungubwe, and the UNESCO-L’Oréal Award for Women in Science. With an H-index of 57 and a ResearchGate score in the top 5%, she recently earned a B1 NRF rating. Prof Lall also serves as an executive board member and Past President of the International Society of Ethnopharmacology and is the founder and President of the African Phytomedicine Scientific Society. |
ABSTRACT
Medicinal plants represent a largely untapped reservoir for the discovery and development of novel therapeutics and natural health products. With approximately 25,000 documented plant species, South Africa ranks third globally in biodiversity—surpassed only by Brazil and Indonesia—and contributes nearly 10% of the world’s plant species. This exceptional diversity, combined with a rich history of traditional plant use, underscores the potential of South Africa’s indigenous flora for the development of innovative medicinal products.
Heteropyxis natalensis, commonly known as the Lavender Tree, is indigenous to South Africa and traditionally used in oral healthcare. In this study, H. natalensis was evaluated for antimicrobial activity against selected oral pathogens. The extract showed significant inhibitory activity, particularly against Actinomyces israelii (minimum inhibitory concentration [MIC] = 0.88 mg/mL) and Streptococcus mutans (MIC = 2.6 mg/mL). Phytochemical analysis led to the identification of five compounds: aurentiacin A (1), cardamomin (2), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxy-methylflavanone (3), quercetin (4), and 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavan (5). Among these, compounds 1 and 4 exhibited notable antimicrobial activity, with MICs of 0.06 mg/mL and 1 mg/mL, respectively, against A. israelii.
Toxicological assessments, including cytotoxicity, genotoxicity, and acute and sub-acute toxicity studies, indicated that H. natalensis is non-mutagenic and safe up to a no-observed-effect level (NOEL) of 200 mg/kg in preclinical models. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) demonstrated that the extract disrupts S. mutans adhesion to enamel by interfering with pellicle formation and glucan binding.
Immunomodulatory assays revealed that H. natalensis significantly reduces interleukin-8 (IL-8) production in macrophages, suggesting potential anti-inflammatory properties relevant to periodontal disease. Additionally, the extract displayed anticoagulant effects through potent inhibition of Factor Xa, a key enzyme in the blood coagulation cascade.
Taken together, these findings suggest that Heteropyxis natalensis is a promising candidate for the development of oral healthcare products, offering both antimicrobial and anticoagulant properties. However, its use should be approached with caution in individuals taking anticoagulant medications or those with bleeding disorders.
Heteropyxis natalensis, commonly known as the Lavender Tree, is indigenous to South Africa and traditionally used in oral healthcare. In this study, H. natalensis was evaluated for antimicrobial activity against selected oral pathogens. The extract showed significant inhibitory activity, particularly against Actinomyces israelii (minimum inhibitory concentration [MIC] = 0.88 mg/mL) and Streptococcus mutans (MIC = 2.6 mg/mL). Phytochemical analysis led to the identification of five compounds: aurentiacin A (1), cardamomin (2), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxy-methylflavanone (3), quercetin (4), and 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavan (5). Among these, compounds 1 and 4 exhibited notable antimicrobial activity, with MICs of 0.06 mg/mL and 1 mg/mL, respectively, against A. israelii.
Toxicological assessments, including cytotoxicity, genotoxicity, and acute and sub-acute toxicity studies, indicated that H. natalensis is non-mutagenic and safe up to a no-observed-effect level (NOEL) of 200 mg/kg in preclinical models. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) demonstrated that the extract disrupts S. mutans adhesion to enamel by interfering with pellicle formation and glucan binding.
Immunomodulatory assays revealed that H. natalensis significantly reduces interleukin-8 (IL-8) production in macrophages, suggesting potential anti-inflammatory properties relevant to periodontal disease. Additionally, the extract displayed anticoagulant effects through potent inhibition of Factor Xa, a key enzyme in the blood coagulation cascade.
Taken together, these findings suggest that Heteropyxis natalensis is a promising candidate for the development of oral healthcare products, offering both antimicrobial and anticoagulant properties. However, its use should be approached with caution in individuals taking anticoagulant medications or those with bleeding disorders.
Plant based Multifunctional Toolbox
15h00-15h30
Aeysha Jakoet
Symrise, South Africa
15h00-15h30
Aeysha Jakoet
Symrise, South Africa
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Aeysha holds an MSc in Pharmaceutical Science and a Diploma in Cosmetic Chemistry from the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) of South Africa.
She is currently a Key Account Manager at Symrise in the Cosmetic Ingredients division. Her extensive background and commitment to innovation continue to drive her contributions to the personal care industry. ABSTRACT
Introduction
Product protection is essential to ensure the safety of cosmetic formulations. There is a growing demand for plant-based ingredients. But chemical stability, colour and odour, as well as insufficient efficacy are hurdles when it comes to this ingredient group. This challenge could be overcome by the development of an innovative, stable, and 100% plant based solution, offering full product protection along with multifunctional benefits. |
Methods
Challenge tests were used for efficacy screening.
Investigation of AOX properties was done by using a cell-free in vitro test.
For the evaluation of ferrous and cupric ion chelating an assay kit was used.
Improved stability of oil in water emulsion was identified by oil droplet size measured via laser diffraction. The influence on the skin microbiome was evaluated by an in vivo study.
Results
The efficacy of single ingredients failed.
Smart combining of different plant-based ingredients demonstrated broad spectrum activity in tested formulations.
Chelating and antioxidative properties could be determined, which leads to an improved stability of the formulation.
Discussion
Plant based ingredients are used for product protection in cosmetics, but they are often facing challenges referring to sufficient broad-band efficacy and stability. These hurdles could be resolved by identifying an innovative platform of ingredients, which can be skillfully combined for superior efficacy.
Different emulsions (anionic, nonionic emulsifier) passed successfully the broad-band efficacy screening by combining suitable plant-based ingredients in a specific ratio. In addition, further multifunctional effects offer formulators an overall protection, covering antioxidant and chelating properties.
With the intensive work on the plant-based ingredients, it was possible to identify specific combinations, where naturality and performance are going hand in hand.
These ingredients represent the start of a new, green and innovative platform for natural multifunctionals, which can be used as a toolbox, fulfilling the needs of modern product protection of various formulation types.
Challenge tests were used for efficacy screening.
Investigation of AOX properties was done by using a cell-free in vitro test.
For the evaluation of ferrous and cupric ion chelating an assay kit was used.
Improved stability of oil in water emulsion was identified by oil droplet size measured via laser diffraction. The influence on the skin microbiome was evaluated by an in vivo study.
Results
The efficacy of single ingredients failed.
Smart combining of different plant-based ingredients demonstrated broad spectrum activity in tested formulations.
Chelating and antioxidative properties could be determined, which leads to an improved stability of the formulation.
Discussion
Plant based ingredients are used for product protection in cosmetics, but they are often facing challenges referring to sufficient broad-band efficacy and stability. These hurdles could be resolved by identifying an innovative platform of ingredients, which can be skillfully combined for superior efficacy.
Different emulsions (anionic, nonionic emulsifier) passed successfully the broad-band efficacy screening by combining suitable plant-based ingredients in a specific ratio. In addition, further multifunctional effects offer formulators an overall protection, covering antioxidant and chelating properties.
With the intensive work on the plant-based ingredients, it was possible to identify specific combinations, where naturality and performance are going hand in hand.
These ingredients represent the start of a new, green and innovative platform for natural multifunctionals, which can be used as a toolbox, fulfilling the needs of modern product protection of various formulation types.
Decoding Skin Tightness, from Clinical Parameters to Biomarkers:
Ceramides as the New Target
15h30-16h00
Nasreen Matthews
L’Oréal Research and Innovation, South Africa
Ceramides as the New Target
15h30-16h00
Nasreen Matthews
L’Oréal Research and Innovation, South Africa
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Nasreen holds the role of Clinical & Physics Scientist at L'Oréal South Africa, which focuses on clinical, instrumental, and claims evaluation. She contributes to research identifying knowledge gaps in African skin, scalp and hair, which is key for driving product innovation for this market.
Further demonstrating her contributions to this field, a paper she co-authored on nuances of African skin was accepted and presented at the last IFSCC Congress. Prior to L'Oréal, she gained clinical laboratory experience at Ampath Pathology Laboratories. This, coupled with her tertiary background in biochemistry, microbiology, and formulation science informs her holistic approach to skin and hair care research. ABSTRACT
The human skin, our body's largest organ, is constantly exposed to the external environment around us. The outermost layer of our skin, known as the stratum corneum, serves as a protective barrier. Consumers often subject their skin to a diverse array of cosmetic treatments such as cleansers for exfoliation of the epidermis which strips away some of the crucial skin lipids responsible for retaining moisture. The sensation of comfort perceived by consumers after using a cosmetic treatment is expressed in subjective terms, such as feelings of “tightness”, “dryness” or “sensitive skin”. Our challenge was to better understand the typology of tight skin.
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Methods
The facial skin of women prone (n=30) and not prone (n=30) to feeling tightness was characterized using instrumental, biological and clinical methods. A harsh cleanser was used to induce skin tightness sensation in a standardized manner. Clinical scores of dryness, as well as instrumental measurements of hydration (corneometer), barrier function (TEWL, pH measurement), sebum level, superficial skin (DTM) and corneocytes mechanical properties (Atomic Force Microscopy) were performed on the face.
Results
Tightness and dryness perception were correlated. Differences in hydration was measured by corneometer or NMF levels. Surprisingly, this difference in rigidity could be caused by differences in the composition of mainly two ceramides, AP and NP and of keratin matrix.
Conclusion
This study demonstrates that the SC stiffness is a major factor to explain skin tightness perception. The skin surface mechanical softening would be correlated with the level of highly hydroxylated ceramides AP and NP.
Microbiological Testing Methods - from Pasteurian to AI -
Improving Production and QC
16h00-16h30
Hein Venter
Anatech Instrument, South Africa
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Hein is a Microbiologist and Product Specialist at Anatech Instruments. He has 25 years experience in providing microbiological solutions to various industries in South Africa and Southern Africa.
He enjoy finding new technologies that provide specific solutions to customers As product manager, he is dealing with international companies on a daily basis and get to know what the international community is up to. Hein likes to share this knowledge with his customers. ABSTRACT
We are now referring, and rightfully so, to conventional microbiological methods as Pasteurian methods. Louis Pasteur managed to see and grow organisms in the late 1800’s and have opened the door to discover organisms that enhance our lives as well as those that cause adverse effects on our health and the products we use daily.
We still rely heavily on these Pasteurian methods and will never replace them completely, but in the last few years we have seen a range of technologies that have significantly improve the way we detect, count, and identify these organisms. |
These new methods improve specifically the production environment and the quality control processes that are required as well as our research and product development strategies.
Today we will look at a few of these new technologies that provide faster, more accurate and more sensitive results and how they improve the way we do QC in the manufacturing environment.
Today we will look at a few of these new technologies that provide faster, more accurate and more sensitive results and how they improve the way we do QC in the manufacturing environment.
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Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]