Abstract Book
Session 4
Abstract Book
Sponsored by
Sponsored by
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07h20-08h10
Registration desk hosted by 07h20-08h10 Arrival Tea/Coffee hosted by H &R |
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Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Johrinda Nel, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, South Africa
08h20-08h30
Welcome
08h30–09h00
Efficacy of Lamellar Emulsion containing Skin Identical Lipids in Mitigating Pollution-Induced Skin Damage
Jacques Strydom, Evonik, South Africa
09h00–09h30
Potential Effect of Juncus Lomatophyllus Spreng, and its Isolated Compound against Symptoms associated with Eczema
Marizé Cuyler, University of Pretoria, South Africa
09h30–10h00
Harnessing Bioelectricity for Advanced Antioxidant Skin Defence with a Novel Biotechnological Active Ingredient
Juan Cebrian, Lubrizol, Spain
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Johrinda Nel, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, South Africa
08h20-08h30
Welcome
08h30–09h00
Efficacy of Lamellar Emulsion containing Skin Identical Lipids in Mitigating Pollution-Induced Skin Damage
Jacques Strydom, Evonik, South Africa
09h00–09h30
Potential Effect of Juncus Lomatophyllus Spreng, and its Isolated Compound against Symptoms associated with Eczema
Marizé Cuyler, University of Pretoria, South Africa
09h30–10h00
Harnessing Bioelectricity for Advanced Antioxidant Skin Defence with a Novel Biotechnological Active Ingredient
Juan Cebrian, Lubrizol, Spain
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10h00-10h03 Marketing slot
10h03–10h30
TEA/COFFEE BREAK |
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Efficacy of Lamellar Emulsion containing Skin Identical Lipids in
Mitigating Pollution-Induced Skin Damage
08h30–09h00
Jacques Strydom
Evonik, South Africa
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Jacques is currently the Chair of the Steering Committee for the upcoming 2029 IFSCC Congress. Nominated by Coschem to join the IFSCC presidium, he hopes to contribute to the ongoing discussions in cosmetic chemistry on a global level. Previously, Jacques served as the President of Coschem in South Africa and plans to contribute to Coshem and the personal care industry for years to come.
With a degree in chemical engineering, Jacques has spent a decade combined in cosmetic research, product development and commerce. He is currently the Business Manager for Care Solutions at Evonik Africa, where he is dedicated to fostering innovation and growth in Sub-Saharan Africa. Jacques values collaboration and knowledge sharing within the community, and he is committed to supporting the advancement of cosmetic chemistry in a humble and inclusive manner. ABSTRACT
Introduction
The increasing prevalence of environmental pollution poses significant risks to skin health, leading to oxidative stress and inflammation. To understand the efficacy potential of a lamellar emulsion containing skin identical lipids (Ceramides, Cholesterol, FFA, PS), well known for its superior barrier repair properties, this study aims to evaluate its anti-pollution efficacy as well. |
Methods
An ex vivo study was conducted using human skin explants obtained from a 34-year-old Caucasian female with a phototype III. The explants were cultured in BEM medium and treated with 5% of the lamellar emulsion or a vehicle control for four days. On day five, the explants were exposed to a pollutant mixture containing heavy metals, hydrocarbons, and diesel particles for 1.5 hours. Post-exposure, samples were collected for immunostaining analysis of Metallothionein (MT-1H), Aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), and oxidized proteins. The control explants did not receive any treatment.
Results
The application of the lamellar emulsion significantly reduced the expression of MT-1H, with a 24% decrease compared to the vehicle control (p<0.05). The treatment also halved the increase of oxidized proteins compared to untreated controls, indicating a protective effect against oxidative stress. Furthermore, the lamellar emulsion inhibited the increase of AhR levels, reducing its expression to levels comparable to untreated controls (p<0.01).
Discussion
The findings suggest that the lamellar emulsion effectively mitigates pollution-induced skin damage by modulating key defence pathways. The significant reduction in MT-1H and oxidized proteins highlights its potential as a protective agent against environmental stressors. The inhibition of AhR expression further supports its role in reducing inflammatory responses associated with pollution.
Conclusion
Ceramides are well-known for their efficacy in reinforcing the skin barrier and retaining moisture. This study further demonstrates promising efficacy in protecting skin from pollution-induced damage, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic formulations aimed at enhancing skin resilience against environmental aggressors.
An ex vivo study was conducted using human skin explants obtained from a 34-year-old Caucasian female with a phototype III. The explants were cultured in BEM medium and treated with 5% of the lamellar emulsion or a vehicle control for four days. On day five, the explants were exposed to a pollutant mixture containing heavy metals, hydrocarbons, and diesel particles for 1.5 hours. Post-exposure, samples were collected for immunostaining analysis of Metallothionein (MT-1H), Aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), and oxidized proteins. The control explants did not receive any treatment.
Results
The application of the lamellar emulsion significantly reduced the expression of MT-1H, with a 24% decrease compared to the vehicle control (p<0.05). The treatment also halved the increase of oxidized proteins compared to untreated controls, indicating a protective effect against oxidative stress. Furthermore, the lamellar emulsion inhibited the increase of AhR levels, reducing its expression to levels comparable to untreated controls (p<0.01).
Discussion
The findings suggest that the lamellar emulsion effectively mitigates pollution-induced skin damage by modulating key defence pathways. The significant reduction in MT-1H and oxidized proteins highlights its potential as a protective agent against environmental stressors. The inhibition of AhR expression further supports its role in reducing inflammatory responses associated with pollution.
Conclusion
Ceramides are well-known for their efficacy in reinforcing the skin barrier and retaining moisture. This study further demonstrates promising efficacy in protecting skin from pollution-induced damage, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic formulations aimed at enhancing skin resilience against environmental aggressors.
Potential Effect of Juncus Lomatophyllus Spreng, and its Isolated
Compound against Symptoms associated with Eczema
Marizé Cuyler
University of Pretoria, South Africa
Compound against Symptoms associated with Eczema
Marizé Cuyler
University of Pretoria, South Africa
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Marizé is currently enrolled for a PhD degree in Medicinal Plant Science at the University of Pretoria. She completed her undergraduate degree in Plant Science and Biochemistry and completed her BSc Hons and MSc in Medicinal Plant Sciences.
Marizé has published several peer-reviewed articles and has served as the project manager for two books titled “Medicinal Plants for Cosmetics, Health and Diseases” and “Medicinal Plants from Sub-Saharan Africa - Undiscovered Therapeutic Potential” and has contributed chapters to both books. She was awarded the third best oral presentation under the young scientist category at the 2022 Indigenous Plant Use Form (IPUF) conference, South Africa, was the runner-up for the Prof. Peter Houghton Innovation Award (institutional category) at the 2025 International Society for Ethnopharmacology (ISE) and The African Phytomedicine Scientific Society (APSS) international congress. Last year, she founded a start-up company, Valoren Cosmetics (Pty) Ltd, which focuses on formulating effective natural cosmetic products for blemishes, wrinkles and skin even tone. |
ABSTRACT
Atopic dermatitis, commonly known as eczema, is an inflammatory skin condition that can persist throughout one’s life. The exact cause of the condition is unknown, however two hypotheses have been proposed; the inside-out and outside-in hypothesis. The inside-out hypothesis states that eczema is caused by a dysregulated immune system that involves overexpression of a pro-inflammatory cytokine, tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), which stimulates the production of tyrosinase, a rate-limiting enzyme associated with melanogenesis causing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The outside-in hypothesis proposes that eczema is caused by a dysfunctional skin barrier as a result of TNF-α’s effect on epidermal maintenance proteins such as filaggrin, loricrin and keratin reducing their production, thereby compromising the barrier’s integrity.
Juncus lomatophyllus Spreng. (JL) is an aquatic plant from the Juncaceae family with limited information regarding its compound composition, biological activity and traditional usage. In a previous study, JL displayed anti-tyrosinase activity with a 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 31.60 ± 6.90 µg/mL. The aim of this study was to identify whether different cultivation methods such as conventional (JLC), hydroponic (JLN) and aeroponic (JLA) systems would affect JL’s biological activity. The study also focused on identifying bioactive compounds that inhibit TNF-α production using bioassay guided fractionation. Moreover, the study evaluated whether the extract from the selected cultivation method and isolated compound reduced nuclear factor kappa beta (NF-κB) production and promoted the production of epidermal maintenance proteins using a 3D skin model.
Of the cultivation methods used, JLC displayed the highest anti-tyrosinase activity (IC50 of 80.55 ± 4.36 µg/mL) and was selected for further evaluation. No compounds have previously been isolated from JL, therefore flash chromatography was used and nine major fractions were collected and evaluated for their effect against TNF-α production. Major fraction P9 was characterized as a semi-pure glycoside, which displayed significant (p < 0.001) anti-TNF-α activity at 200 (10.78 ± 0.84 pg/mL) and 100 µg/mL (11.52 ± 1.06 pg/mL), while JLC at 25 (18.41 ± 0.32 pg/mL, p < 0.001) and 12.5 µg/mL (16.46 ± 0.85 pg/mL, p < 0.05) promoted TNF-α production compared to the 0.5% DMSO vehicle control (14.86 ± 0.62 pg/mL).
To evaluate the effect of JLC and P9 on the production of epidermal maintenance proteins, an EpiSkin RHE model was used. The cytotoxic potential of the selected samples was evaluated using 3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-Diphenyltetrazolium Bromide (MTT) where JLC at 25 (190.28 ± 1.35%, p < 0.01) and 12.5 µg/mL (221.72 ± 0.83%, p < 0.001) and P9 at 200 (193.23 ± 6.56%) and 100 µg/mL (185.57 ± 0.52%) significantly (p < 0.01) promoted cell proliferation compared to the 0.5% DMSO vehicle control (166.64 ± 4.17%). To induce eczema associated symptoms, the EpiSkin model was grown in growth media stimulated with a cytokine cocktail for 11 days before exposure to the selected samples, which is currently ongoing.
Future aspects involve determining whether the selected samples reduce the production of NF-κB using flow cytometry. Previously, JL’s potential irritancy and hyperpigmentation effect was conducted using in vivo methods. Thus, to validate P9 effect, in vivo based studies could be conducted on P9’s potential irritancy and anti-eczema effect.
Juncus lomatophyllus Spreng. (JL) is an aquatic plant from the Juncaceae family with limited information regarding its compound composition, biological activity and traditional usage. In a previous study, JL displayed anti-tyrosinase activity with a 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 31.60 ± 6.90 µg/mL. The aim of this study was to identify whether different cultivation methods such as conventional (JLC), hydroponic (JLN) and aeroponic (JLA) systems would affect JL’s biological activity. The study also focused on identifying bioactive compounds that inhibit TNF-α production using bioassay guided fractionation. Moreover, the study evaluated whether the extract from the selected cultivation method and isolated compound reduced nuclear factor kappa beta (NF-κB) production and promoted the production of epidermal maintenance proteins using a 3D skin model.
Of the cultivation methods used, JLC displayed the highest anti-tyrosinase activity (IC50 of 80.55 ± 4.36 µg/mL) and was selected for further evaluation. No compounds have previously been isolated from JL, therefore flash chromatography was used and nine major fractions were collected and evaluated for their effect against TNF-α production. Major fraction P9 was characterized as a semi-pure glycoside, which displayed significant (p < 0.001) anti-TNF-α activity at 200 (10.78 ± 0.84 pg/mL) and 100 µg/mL (11.52 ± 1.06 pg/mL), while JLC at 25 (18.41 ± 0.32 pg/mL, p < 0.001) and 12.5 µg/mL (16.46 ± 0.85 pg/mL, p < 0.05) promoted TNF-α production compared to the 0.5% DMSO vehicle control (14.86 ± 0.62 pg/mL).
To evaluate the effect of JLC and P9 on the production of epidermal maintenance proteins, an EpiSkin RHE model was used. The cytotoxic potential of the selected samples was evaluated using 3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-Diphenyltetrazolium Bromide (MTT) where JLC at 25 (190.28 ± 1.35%, p < 0.01) and 12.5 µg/mL (221.72 ± 0.83%, p < 0.001) and P9 at 200 (193.23 ± 6.56%) and 100 µg/mL (185.57 ± 0.52%) significantly (p < 0.01) promoted cell proliferation compared to the 0.5% DMSO vehicle control (166.64 ± 4.17%). To induce eczema associated symptoms, the EpiSkin model was grown in growth media stimulated with a cytokine cocktail for 11 days before exposure to the selected samples, which is currently ongoing.
Future aspects involve determining whether the selected samples reduce the production of NF-κB using flow cytometry. Previously, JL’s potential irritancy and hyperpigmentation effect was conducted using in vivo methods. Thus, to validate P9 effect, in vivo based studies could be conducted on P9’s potential irritancy and anti-eczema effect.
Harnessing Bioelectricity for Advanced Antioxidant Skin Defence
with a Novel Biotechnological Active Ingredient
Juan Cebrian
Lubrizol, Spain
with a Novel Biotechnological Active Ingredient
Juan Cebrian
Lubrizol, Spain
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Juan holds a PhD in Organic Chemistry from the University of Barcelona, joined Lubrizol's Innovation team in 2001. There, he led the development of new active ingredients and delivery systems for cosmetics.
He also led the Analysis department, after which he joined the functional ingredients development team for Skin Care. Currently, he is a Technical Fellow at Lubrizol and EMEA Senior Technical Service Scientist, specializing in Active Ingredients. ABSTRACT
Recent skin microbiome research highlights its role as an antioxidant force, especially through electrogenic bacteria like Staphylococcus epidermidis. These bacteria, abundant on human skin, generate electricity by fermenting skin nutrients into short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), such as acetate and butyrate. Staphylococcus epidermidis oxidizes these SCFAs, releasing electrons via extracellular electron transport (EET).
EET electrons neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS), free radicals that cause oxidative stress, impacting skin structure and function. By reducing oxidative stress, the degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins like collagen is minimized, reducing cellular senescence and maintaining skin health. |
External factors like solar radiation and aging can reduce electrogenic bacteria growth, decreasing bioelectricity and increasing ROS. This oxidative stress accelerates cellular aging and degrades proteins essential for skin firmness and elasticity. Activating electrogenic bacteria in the skin can counteract bioelectricity loss, enhance anti-aging mechanisms and prevent electricity loss due to aging or environmental stressors like UV exposure. High bioelectricity levels are associated with reduced collagen degradation and cellular senescence, resulting in smoother, luminous skin often described as "glass skin."
Oxidative stress affects skin parameters such as pores, aging, hydration, radiance, and translucency, linked to collagen levels and cellular senescence. Enlarged pores connect to sebum production, skin aging, photodamage, and hair follicle size. Skin elasticity and strength negatively correlate with pore size and density, with aging disrupting the collagen and elastin framework necessary for resilient skin.
Senescent cells produced by ROS exposure accumulate in aged skin, altering fibroblast function. Senescence affects ECM components like collagen and elastin, increasing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) activity, fragmenting proteins, and reducing dermal functionality. This leads to decreased skin firmness and elasticity, promoting wrinkles and sagging. Senescent cells secrete SASP factors, impairing barrier function and reducing skin protection and hydration.
Hydration is impacted by reduced collagen production and decreased hyaluronic acid levels, affecting skin moisture. Radiance depends on the skin's ability to scatter and reflect light. Younger skin shows greater reflectivity and even reflection, contributing to brightness and glow. Aged skin appears shinier due to compromised dermal reflectance.
Translucency involves surface reflection, diffuse reflection, and subsurface light scattering. Factors affecting subsurface scattering include melanin levels, stratum corneum status, skin moisture, collagen status, and texture. Maintaining these factors supports translucent skin.
Probiotic microorganisms were explored for skin benefits, utilizing proven gut microbiome modulation. Lactobacillus isolates from various foods were screened to identify candidates supporting skincare benefits. The selected Lactobacillus extract enhances anti-aging potential by boosting Staphylococcus epidermidis growth and SCFA production.
Lactobacillus Ferment, derived from fermented beets, functions as a postbiotic, enhancing electrogenic bacteria on the skin, increasing bioelectricity levels and demonstrating significant antioxidant effects. Studies confirmed its ability to protect skin cells from solar radiation and senescence, minimizing oxidative stress and collagen degradation.
On volunteers, Lactobacillus Ferment improved skin luminosity, translucency, hydration, and smoothness, reducing pore appearance and promoting a youthful "glass skin" look. This innovative ingredient showcases the potential of utilizing skin microbiome for enhanced skin health and aesthetics.
This research underscores the promising role of the skin microbiome in skincare, offering novel solutions for maintaining skin health and appearance.
Oxidative stress affects skin parameters such as pores, aging, hydration, radiance, and translucency, linked to collagen levels and cellular senescence. Enlarged pores connect to sebum production, skin aging, photodamage, and hair follicle size. Skin elasticity and strength negatively correlate with pore size and density, with aging disrupting the collagen and elastin framework necessary for resilient skin.
Senescent cells produced by ROS exposure accumulate in aged skin, altering fibroblast function. Senescence affects ECM components like collagen and elastin, increasing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) activity, fragmenting proteins, and reducing dermal functionality. This leads to decreased skin firmness and elasticity, promoting wrinkles and sagging. Senescent cells secrete SASP factors, impairing barrier function and reducing skin protection and hydration.
Hydration is impacted by reduced collagen production and decreased hyaluronic acid levels, affecting skin moisture. Radiance depends on the skin's ability to scatter and reflect light. Younger skin shows greater reflectivity and even reflection, contributing to brightness and glow. Aged skin appears shinier due to compromised dermal reflectance.
Translucency involves surface reflection, diffuse reflection, and subsurface light scattering. Factors affecting subsurface scattering include melanin levels, stratum corneum status, skin moisture, collagen status, and texture. Maintaining these factors supports translucent skin.
Probiotic microorganisms were explored for skin benefits, utilizing proven gut microbiome modulation. Lactobacillus isolates from various foods were screened to identify candidates supporting skincare benefits. The selected Lactobacillus extract enhances anti-aging potential by boosting Staphylococcus epidermidis growth and SCFA production.
Lactobacillus Ferment, derived from fermented beets, functions as a postbiotic, enhancing electrogenic bacteria on the skin, increasing bioelectricity levels and demonstrating significant antioxidant effects. Studies confirmed its ability to protect skin cells from solar radiation and senescence, minimizing oxidative stress and collagen degradation.
On volunteers, Lactobacillus Ferment improved skin luminosity, translucency, hydration, and smoothness, reducing pore appearance and promoting a youthful "glass skin" look. This innovative ingredient showcases the potential of utilizing skin microbiome for enhanced skin health and aesthetics.
This research underscores the promising role of the skin microbiome in skincare, offering novel solutions for maintaining skin health and appearance.
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Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]