Abstract Book
Session 5
Abstract Book
Sponsored by
Sponsored by
Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Lumbidzani Moyo, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
10h30-11h00
Anti-acne and Anti-hyperpigmentation Potential of Selected South African Bryophytes with Identification of Oleamide as a Lead Compound
Alexander Paulsen, University of Pretoria, South Africa
11h00-11h30
Laminaria Hyperborea Extract- Targeting Porphyr’ageing™ for Youthful, Healthy Skin
Frederic Serres, Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
11h30–12h00
A New Approach to High Performance and Sustainable Emollients for Personal Care Formulations
Björn Heuer, Hansen & Rosenthal GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Lumbidzani Moyo, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
10h30-11h00
Anti-acne and Anti-hyperpigmentation Potential of Selected South African Bryophytes with Identification of Oleamide as a Lead Compound
Alexander Paulsen, University of Pretoria, South Africa
11h00-11h30
Laminaria Hyperborea Extract- Targeting Porphyr’ageing™ for Youthful, Healthy Skin
Frederic Serres, Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
11h30–12h00
A New Approach to High Performance and Sustainable Emollients for Personal Care Formulations
Björn Heuer, Hansen & Rosenthal GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
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12h00-12h03 Marketing slot
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12h03-13h00
LUNCH BREAK Equinox Restaurant – 1st floor |
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Anti-acne and Anti-hyperpigmentation Potential of Selected South African
Bryophytes with Identification of Oleamide as a Lead Compound
Alexander Paulsen
10h30-11h00
University of Pretoria, South Africa
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Alexander completed high school at Pretoria Boys High School, and received his NSC with 5 distinctions alongside IEB advanced programme English and mathematics, as well as A-level mathematics. He obtained his Bachelor of Science degree in Plant Science and Biochemistry in 2023 at the University of Pretoria. The following year he furthered his studies with the completion of his BSc (Hons) in Medicinal Plant Science (with distinction), and was the inaugural recipient of the Living NaturallyTM award which is given to the best honours student in Medicinal Plant Science.
He is presently furthering his career in science as an MSc student in Medicinal Plant Science with research focussing on the medicinal properties of South African dye plants. Concurrent to his MSc, Alexander is working as a tutor at the University of Pretoria assisting in the undergraduate chemistry cirriculum. In his spare time, he enjoys outdoor rock climbing and persuing the art of botanical painting. ABSTRACT
Not only is the human skin the largest organ of the body, but it is also the first line of defense between vulnerable inner tissues and the outside world. Reduced efficacy of the dermal barrier places one at greater risk of infection of lower lying tissues. The resultant decline in skin health is inherently associated with psychosocial issues including suicidal ideation. A particularly common condition affecting the dermis is acne vulgaris (AV) with an estimated prevalence throughout the entire human population of 9.4%, and associations with emotional distress. The prevalence of AV peaks in adolescents and the condition can leave lasting keloidal scarring on gentler parts of the skin. Both scarring and emotional distress contribute towards the degradation of quality of life for acne patients.
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One of the chronic inflammatory disorder’s key pathogenic factors is the dermatological infection of Cutibacterium acnes, which further stimulates the inflammatory process. Severe acne has several associated sequelae, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is particularly common in patients of African ancestry. While the exact pathophysiology of PIH is unknown, the production of melanin is key to PIH pathogenesis, and hyperpigmentation disorders are typically treated with inhibitors of tyrosinase – a key and rate limiting enzyme in the melanogenic pathway. Both AV and PIH have been noted to negatively impact the quality of life of patients affected by these disorders, and finding a cost-effective herbal medicine for these conditions will contribute to furthering health and well-being for all.
The gold standard and first line treatment for AV is topical bactericides, such as benzoyl peroxide coupled with topical retinoids or oral antibiotics, which is known to discourage treatment seeking behaviour and lead to patients seeking alternative treatments due to their adverse effects, including dry skin and burning. Herbal remedies have seen a notable uptick in interest and use, sometimes demonstrating equal or higher efficacy than standard treatments. Herbal medicines thus pose a promising alternative to the aforementioned therapies, and champion sustainable and responsible consumption. One such group of plants, neglected in terms of their biological activity, are bryophytes – non-vascular plants including mosses, liverworts and hornworts – which find frequent use in Eastern traditional medicine systems for skin conditions despite their lesser popularity. Herbal medicines with dual function anti-acne and anti-hyperpigmentation activities may thus contribute greatly towards the development of multi-target cosmeceuticals. Based on their availability, Bryum argenteum Hedw., Fabronia pilifera Hornsch., and Leptodictyum riparium (Hedw.) Warnst. were selected and ethanolic (70%v/v) extracts were prepared from either rinsed or unrinsed plant material. Biological activities aimed at treating AV and PIH were investigated by determining antibacterial activity against C. acnes, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and finally sending lead extracts for compounds identification with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).
The antibacterial activity against C. acnes (ATCC 6919) was evaluated, with the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) reported for rinsed B. argenteum extract (31.25 μg/mL), followed by rinsed F. pilifera extract (62.5 μg/mL). Downstream GC-MS revealed a compound with documented antibacterial properties, oleamide, to be the primary constituent (17.37% – 52.64%) of the extract’s volatile composition. The highest oleamide concentration was observed in the rinsed B. argenteum ethanolic extract, corresponding to the lowest MIC observed. Other antibacterial compounds including methyl palmitate, methyl oleate, and phytol were also noted.
All extracts tested demonstrated IC50 values greater than the highest tested concentration for the tyrosinase inhibitory assay, demonstrating little evidence for tyrosinase inhibition. However, downstream GC-MS identified a compound with known tyrosinase inhibitory activity – methyl linolenate – to be present in F. pilifera and B. argenteum extracts. Antagonistic effects between compounds within the complex mixture of compounds present in extracts are therefore hypothesised to be present. Further investigations may serve to elucidate the influence of individual compounds on bryophyte tyrosinase inhibitory activity.
The present study highlights extract preparation method as an integral and influential component of herbal medicine preparation, as evidenced by the variation in activity between extracts prepared from rinsed versus unrinsed bryophyte material. This study highlights the potential of bryophytes to contribute to the arsenal of medicinal plants in the management of AV and PIH and continues to promote bryophytes as sources for novel cosmeceutical interventions. Further research into varying concentrations of these compounds in mixture may clarify an optimal ratio for anti-acne activity and bioassay guided fractionation is recommended as further analysis and confirmation of oleamide as the principal antibacterial component of B. argenteum and F. pilifera.
The gold standard and first line treatment for AV is topical bactericides, such as benzoyl peroxide coupled with topical retinoids or oral antibiotics, which is known to discourage treatment seeking behaviour and lead to patients seeking alternative treatments due to their adverse effects, including dry skin and burning. Herbal remedies have seen a notable uptick in interest and use, sometimes demonstrating equal or higher efficacy than standard treatments. Herbal medicines thus pose a promising alternative to the aforementioned therapies, and champion sustainable and responsible consumption. One such group of plants, neglected in terms of their biological activity, are bryophytes – non-vascular plants including mosses, liverworts and hornworts – which find frequent use in Eastern traditional medicine systems for skin conditions despite their lesser popularity. Herbal medicines with dual function anti-acne and anti-hyperpigmentation activities may thus contribute greatly towards the development of multi-target cosmeceuticals. Based on their availability, Bryum argenteum Hedw., Fabronia pilifera Hornsch., and Leptodictyum riparium (Hedw.) Warnst. were selected and ethanolic (70%v/v) extracts were prepared from either rinsed or unrinsed plant material. Biological activities aimed at treating AV and PIH were investigated by determining antibacterial activity against C. acnes, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and finally sending lead extracts for compounds identification with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).
The antibacterial activity against C. acnes (ATCC 6919) was evaluated, with the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) reported for rinsed B. argenteum extract (31.25 μg/mL), followed by rinsed F. pilifera extract (62.5 μg/mL). Downstream GC-MS revealed a compound with documented antibacterial properties, oleamide, to be the primary constituent (17.37% – 52.64%) of the extract’s volatile composition. The highest oleamide concentration was observed in the rinsed B. argenteum ethanolic extract, corresponding to the lowest MIC observed. Other antibacterial compounds including methyl palmitate, methyl oleate, and phytol were also noted.
All extracts tested demonstrated IC50 values greater than the highest tested concentration for the tyrosinase inhibitory assay, demonstrating little evidence for tyrosinase inhibition. However, downstream GC-MS identified a compound with known tyrosinase inhibitory activity – methyl linolenate – to be present in F. pilifera and B. argenteum extracts. Antagonistic effects between compounds within the complex mixture of compounds present in extracts are therefore hypothesised to be present. Further investigations may serve to elucidate the influence of individual compounds on bryophyte tyrosinase inhibitory activity.
The present study highlights extract preparation method as an integral and influential component of herbal medicine preparation, as evidenced by the variation in activity between extracts prepared from rinsed versus unrinsed bryophyte material. This study highlights the potential of bryophytes to contribute to the arsenal of medicinal plants in the management of AV and PIH and continues to promote bryophytes as sources for novel cosmeceutical interventions. Further research into varying concentrations of these compounds in mixture may clarify an optimal ratio for anti-acne activity and bioassay guided fractionation is recommended as further analysis and confirmation of oleamide as the principal antibacterial component of B. argenteum and F. pilifera.
Laminaria Hyperborea Extract- Targeting Porphyr’ageing™
for Youthful, Healthy Skin
Frederic Serres
11h00-11h30
Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
for Youthful, Healthy Skin
Frederic Serres
11h00-11h30
Givaudan Active Beauty Fragrance & Beauty, France
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Frederic has a Master degree in Chemistry of Polymers & Biology of the French University of Lille, and has 20 years experience with several active ingredient manufacturers.
He works for Givaudan Active Beauty for 7 years and takes care specifically of the African & Middle East Region. He works actively with our partners from The Careco for the African territories. ABSTRACT
Givaudan Active Beauty reveals Laminaria Hyperborea, a marine active ingredient sourced from the depths of Brittany’s Ocean. Derived from the macroalgae Laminaria Hyperborea, it is produced through an innovative upcycling process, transforming fresh algae into a high-precision beauty ingredient combatting skin ageing and promoting youthful skin.
At IFSCC 2024, Givaudan Active Beauty revealed a breakthrough scientific discovery: Porphyr’ageing. This concept refers to the newly discovered biological mechanism behind skin ageing, wherein porphyrins—metabolites produced by the skin’s microbiota—play a key role in the skin ageing process. These prevalent molecules significantly influence several biological mechanisms linked to skin ageing, in addition to other well-known mechanisms. |
Laminaria Hyperborea is identified as the most effective ingredient to address Porphyr’ageing, decelerating ageing and correcting both invisible and visible signs of time (validated by AI technology), which involves:
● Inhibiting the production of porphyrins and enhancing their clearance via autophagy, preventing further damages to the skin.
● Blocking porphyrin-induced melanogenesis, while reducing the formation of spots precursors and visible spots to promote a more even skin tone.
● Stimulating the synthesis of the extracellular matrix (ECM) constituents, enhancing the skin’s elasticity and firmness to prevent the formation of wrinkles.
Our exploration of the skin microbiome has reached yet another milestone with the discovery of Porphyr’ageing. Universal and inclusive, Laminaria Hyperborea works on multiple levels to address existing signs of ageing while proactively preventing future skin damage, making it a comprehensive solution for healthier and more youthful-looking skin.
The concept of beauty is evolving. Today, each stage of life is celebrated, and ageing is approached proactively, with a focus on prevention. Skin health is now a cornerstone of beauty, and consumers are looking for brands that align with their pursuit of longevity.
● Inhibiting the production of porphyrins and enhancing their clearance via autophagy, preventing further damages to the skin.
● Blocking porphyrin-induced melanogenesis, while reducing the formation of spots precursors and visible spots to promote a more even skin tone.
● Stimulating the synthesis of the extracellular matrix (ECM) constituents, enhancing the skin’s elasticity and firmness to prevent the formation of wrinkles.
Our exploration of the skin microbiome has reached yet another milestone with the discovery of Porphyr’ageing. Universal and inclusive, Laminaria Hyperborea works on multiple levels to address existing signs of ageing while proactively preventing future skin damage, making it a comprehensive solution for healthier and more youthful-looking skin.
The concept of beauty is evolving. Today, each stage of life is celebrated, and ageing is approached proactively, with a focus on prevention. Skin health is now a cornerstone of beauty, and consumers are looking for brands that align with their pursuit of longevity.
A New Approach to High Performance and Sustainable
Emollients for Personal Care Formulations
Björn Heuer
11h30–12h00
Hansen & Rosenthal GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
Emollients for Personal Care Formulations
Björn Heuer
11h30–12h00
Hansen & Rosenthal GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
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Björn holds a PhD in polymer chemistry, earned in 2004 from the University of Hamburg. He spent eight years working in research and development within a multinational company in the cosmetic industry, focusing on hair care, skin care, and sun care.
Since 2012, he has been with H&R, where he has held various leadership roles in R&D management and has served as R&D Director since 2022. ABSTRACT
The requirements for modern personal care emollients are becoming more and more complex. Sustainable and responsible ingredient sourcing is already mandatory, but the understanding of sustainability is still very diversified. The renewable nature of ingredients, specifically not being fossil origin, is not the only relevant requirement. Parameters like the product Carbon footprint, based on a full lifecycle analysis, a direct or indirect food competition, deforestation, biodegradation properties etc. need to be considered. On the other hand, the performance expectations for emollients in different personal care formulations are also increasing. High purity, stability, ingredient compatibility, skin friendliness, moisturization etc. are relevant for the whole range of products, ranging from light body care fluids or lotions to very rich and pampering creams or ointments. Finally, availability and commercial feasibility need to be considered as well.
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Natural emollients are renewable and are widely used and established in personal care industry. These materials fulfill many of the above-mentioned requirements. However, parameters like food competition, deforestation, stability, availability, and pricing can be an issue and the variety of properties has its limits. Via synthetic routes, high purity and high performance, versatile emollients are accessible, but are often dependent on non-renewable, even fossil, feedstocks.
The H&R Group, with 20 affiliates around the globe, is dedicated to producing innovative, tailor-made chemical pharmaceutical specialty products. H&R's journey began in 1919 with a focus on supplying mineral oil products such as pharmaceutical white oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes. As we prioritize sustainability, we are reshaping our business model to incorporate renewable, synthetic, and recycled, or re-refined materials into our feedstock base. This ensures the operations align with H&R's responsibility for the environment and society. As part of this engagement in the transformation of our business model, we invested in an innovative production process to transform very basic plant-derived raw materials into high purity, inert hydrocarbons, and non-polar emollients that seamlessly merge the benefits of both synthetic and natural properties. By this, a contribution can be made to reducing CO2 emissions and accelerating the de-carbonization and de-fossilization of the industry.
Combining the precision of synthetic structures, the virtues inherent to hydrocarbons, and the sustainable attributes of plants, the H&R technology platform allows alternatives to a wide range of established personal care emollients. These naturally sourced emollients can allow formulators to replace volatile cyclic silicones, light to rich mineral white oils, polydecene, squalane and others. Benefits over vegetable oils can include purity, stability, absence of color and odor, and skin compatibility. Beside improvements in sustainability, these emollients can also help to address regulatory guidelines, like restrictions of use for cyclic volatile silicones, or customer demands, like absence of MOSH and MOAH.
The H&R Group, with 20 affiliates around the globe, is dedicated to producing innovative, tailor-made chemical pharmaceutical specialty products. H&R's journey began in 1919 with a focus on supplying mineral oil products such as pharmaceutical white oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes. As we prioritize sustainability, we are reshaping our business model to incorporate renewable, synthetic, and recycled, or re-refined materials into our feedstock base. This ensures the operations align with H&R's responsibility for the environment and society. As part of this engagement in the transformation of our business model, we invested in an innovative production process to transform very basic plant-derived raw materials into high purity, inert hydrocarbons, and non-polar emollients that seamlessly merge the benefits of both synthetic and natural properties. By this, a contribution can be made to reducing CO2 emissions and accelerating the de-carbonization and de-fossilization of the industry.
Combining the precision of synthetic structures, the virtues inherent to hydrocarbons, and the sustainable attributes of plants, the H&R technology platform allows alternatives to a wide range of established personal care emollients. These naturally sourced emollients can allow formulators to replace volatile cyclic silicones, light to rich mineral white oils, polydecene, squalane and others. Benefits over vegetable oils can include purity, stability, absence of color and odor, and skin compatibility. Beside improvements in sustainability, these emollients can also help to address regulatory guidelines, like restrictions of use for cyclic volatile silicones, or customer demands, like absence of MOSH and MOAH.
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Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]
Coschem is POPI compliant, Bridget MacDonald is the registered Information Officer. Should you have any queries, please contact her on [email protected]