Abstract Book
Sponsored by
Chairpersons:
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Lee-Ann Raaff SMU, South Africa
14h00-14h30
Optimized Synergistic Interaction Gel
(SIG) Technology: A Method-Driven
Evaluation of a High-Performance
Natural Gelling System
Sonia Guillaume
SOLABIA, France
14h30-15h00
Beyond Cleansing: Multifunctional
Glycolipids for Advanced Personal
Care Formulations
Jacques Strydom
Evonik Africa
15h00-15h30
Targeting Neurogenic Inflammation
in Climate-Stressed Skin:
A Neurocosmetic approach based on
organic Scutellaria Alpina
Viviana Sanchez
dsm-firmenich, Dubai, UAE
15h30-15h45
Winning Debate Team Announcement
& Closing Address
Lee-Ann Raaff
SMU, South Africa
Vice President, Coschem 2026
END DAY 2
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Lee-Ann Raaff SMU, South Africa
14h00-14h30
Optimized Synergistic Interaction Gel
(SIG) Technology: A Method-Driven
Evaluation of a High-Performance
Natural Gelling System
Sonia Guillaume
SOLABIA, France
14h30-15h00
Beyond Cleansing: Multifunctional
Glycolipids for Advanced Personal
Care Formulations
Jacques Strydom
Evonik Africa
15h00-15h30
Targeting Neurogenic Inflammation
in Climate-Stressed Skin:
A Neurocosmetic approach based on
organic Scutellaria Alpina
Viviana Sanchez
dsm-firmenich, Dubai, UAE
15h30-15h45
Winning Debate Team Announcement
& Closing Address
Lee-Ann Raaff
SMU, South Africa
Vice President, Coschem 2026
END DAY 2
Day 2 Session 7 | 14h00-14h30
Optimized Synergistic Interaction Gel (SIG) Technology: A Method-Driven
Evaluation of a High-Performance Natural Gelling System
Sonia Guillaume
SOLABIA, France
Evaluation of a High-Performance Natural Gelling System
Sonia Guillaume
SOLABIA, France
|
Biography
Sonia is Export Sales Manager at Solabia Group since March 2026. She has built 25 years of experience in international marketing and sales of cosmetic ingredients. Holding a degree in Political Sciences and a Certificate in Marketing, she has successfully grown businesses through distributor networks. Committed to sustainability, she helps customers develop more eco-friendly formulations Abstract Context The development of high-performance gelling systems for personal care applications is increasingly driven by the need to reconcile functional efficiency with natural origin and sustainability. Conventional formulation approaches rely on synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, which exhibit strong rheological control and reproducible viscoelastic behavior, or natural polysaccharides, which are limited by weaker structuring ability, poor electrolyte tolerance, and suboptimal sensory properties. This gap has led to the development of optimized Synergistic Interaction Gel (SIG) systems, designed to enhance intermolecular structuring through controlled modification of polysaccharide interactions. |
The present work aims to characterize the physicochemical, rheological, and functional performance of this SIG system using a combination of structural analysis, rheological measurements, and application-driven benchmarking protocols against conventional natural thickeners.
Materials and Methods
The SIG system, composed of modified natural polysaccharides, was evaluated over a concentration range of 0.05% to 0.5% (w/w), corresponding to typical use levels in personal care formulations. All samples were prepared by direct dispersion in deionized water under controlled stirring conditions, without pre-hydration or premixing, to assess ease of processing and reproducibility.
Microstructural characterization of the resulting hydrogels was performed using electron microscopy (MEB) and cryomicroscopy techniques to visualize network organization, pore size distribution, and structural homogeneity. These analyses aimed to correlate macroscopic rheological behavior with network architecture.
Additionally, rheological properties were evaluated using oscillatory and steady shear measurements. Frequency sweep tests were conducted to determine storage modulus (G’) and loss modulus (G’’), providing insight into viscoelastic balance, while stress sweep and flow curve analyses were used to assess yield stress, shear-thinning behavior, and viscosity breakdown under applied stress.
Functional performance was assessed through a series of standardized application tests. Thickening efficiency was determined by viscosity measurements at controlled shear rates and compared directly to xanthan gum at equivalent concentrations.
Electrolyte tolerance was assessed by incorporating increasing concentrations of ionic species into the gel matrix and measuring viscosity retention. Additionally, pH stability studies were performed across a range from pH 4 to pH 10 to evaluate network robustness under varying formulation conditions.
Emulsion stabilization capacity was evaluated using model oil-in-water emulsions subjected to centrifugation and accelerated stability protocols, including thermal cycling and extended storage.
Particle suspension capability was investigated using dispersions containing insoluble pearlescent particles, with sedimentation behavior monitored over time.
Finally, sensory evaluation was conducted using a trained expert panel applying standardized descriptive analysis methods, focusing on parameters such as tackiness, stringiness, spreadability, freshness, and after-feel.
Results and Discussion
Microstructural analysis revealed that the SIG system forms a dense and homogeneous three-dimensional network with a characteristic honeycomb-like morphology. This architecture is markedly more organized than that observed in conventional polysaccharide systems and is associated with enhanced mechanical strength and elasticity.
Rheological measurements confirmed a dominant elastic behavior, with storage modulus consistently exceeding loss modulus (G’ > G’’), indicating the formation of a solid-like gel structure. Under increasing shear stress, a sharp transition from elastic to viscous behavior was observed, accompanied by a rapid decrease in viscosity. This pronounced shear-thinning behavior is indicative of a structured network capable of resisting deformation at rest while flowing readily under application conditions.
In terms of thickening performance, viscosity measurements demonstrated that the SIG system achieves up to twenty times higher viscosity than xanthan gum at equivalent concentrations. Notably, stable and coherent gels were obtained at concentrations as low as 0.05%, highlighting the exceptional efficiency of the system and its potential to reduce overall polymer load in formulations.
The system also demonstrated strong robustness to formulation constraints. Viscosity measurements across a pH range of 4 to 10 confirmed minimal variation in rheological properties, indicating high pH tolerance. Similarly, the addition of electrolytes resulted in limited viscosity loss, confirming the network’s resistance to ionic disruption, which is a known limitation of traditional polysaccharide-based systems.
Emulsion stability tests further demonstrated the robustness of the SIG network. At a concentration of approximately 0.1%, emulsions structured with the SIG system remained stable under centrifugation and accelerated aging conditions, with no visible phase separation. In contrast, emulsions prepared with xanthan gum or glucomannan at the same concentration exhibited clear instability. This behavior can be attributed to the increased yield stress and microviscosity around dispersed droplets, which limit mobility and coalescence.
Particle suspension studies showed that insoluble particles remained uniformly dispersed within the SIG gel matrix over time, even at low concentrations. This contrasts with conventional natural thickeners, which require significantly higher dosages to achieve similar suspension performance, often at the expense of texture quality.
Sensory evaluation results were consistent with instrumental findings. The SIG-based gels were characterized by low tackiness, absence of stringiness, and a pronounced “water-release” effect upon application, reflecting rapid structural breakdown under shear. These attributes closely resemble those of carbomer-based systems, suggesting that the SIG technology successfully replicates the sensory performance of synthetic polymers while maintaining natural origin.
Conclusion
The methodological evaluation of the optimized Synergistic Interaction Gel system demonstrates that controlled molecular engineering of polysaccharide interactions can significantly enhance the structural and functional performance of natural gelling agents. Through combined microstructural analysis, rheological characterization, and application-based testing, the SIG technology has been shown to deliver high thickening efficiency, strong viscoelastic properties, and robust stability under challenging formulation conditions.
The ability to achieve these results at very low concentrations, while maintaining desirable sensory attributes and compatibility with a wide range of formulation parameters, represents a major advancement in the design of natural-origin gelling systems. This approach provides a scientifically validated pathway to bridge the gap between synthetic performance and natural sustainability in personal care formulations.
Materials and Methods
The SIG system, composed of modified natural polysaccharides, was evaluated over a concentration range of 0.05% to 0.5% (w/w), corresponding to typical use levels in personal care formulations. All samples were prepared by direct dispersion in deionized water under controlled stirring conditions, without pre-hydration or premixing, to assess ease of processing and reproducibility.
Microstructural characterization of the resulting hydrogels was performed using electron microscopy (MEB) and cryomicroscopy techniques to visualize network organization, pore size distribution, and structural homogeneity. These analyses aimed to correlate macroscopic rheological behavior with network architecture.
Additionally, rheological properties were evaluated using oscillatory and steady shear measurements. Frequency sweep tests were conducted to determine storage modulus (G’) and loss modulus (G’’), providing insight into viscoelastic balance, while stress sweep and flow curve analyses were used to assess yield stress, shear-thinning behavior, and viscosity breakdown under applied stress.
Functional performance was assessed through a series of standardized application tests. Thickening efficiency was determined by viscosity measurements at controlled shear rates and compared directly to xanthan gum at equivalent concentrations.
Electrolyte tolerance was assessed by incorporating increasing concentrations of ionic species into the gel matrix and measuring viscosity retention. Additionally, pH stability studies were performed across a range from pH 4 to pH 10 to evaluate network robustness under varying formulation conditions.
Emulsion stabilization capacity was evaluated using model oil-in-water emulsions subjected to centrifugation and accelerated stability protocols, including thermal cycling and extended storage.
Particle suspension capability was investigated using dispersions containing insoluble pearlescent particles, with sedimentation behavior monitored over time.
Finally, sensory evaluation was conducted using a trained expert panel applying standardized descriptive analysis methods, focusing on parameters such as tackiness, stringiness, spreadability, freshness, and after-feel.
Results and Discussion
Microstructural analysis revealed that the SIG system forms a dense and homogeneous three-dimensional network with a characteristic honeycomb-like morphology. This architecture is markedly more organized than that observed in conventional polysaccharide systems and is associated with enhanced mechanical strength and elasticity.
Rheological measurements confirmed a dominant elastic behavior, with storage modulus consistently exceeding loss modulus (G’ > G’’), indicating the formation of a solid-like gel structure. Under increasing shear stress, a sharp transition from elastic to viscous behavior was observed, accompanied by a rapid decrease in viscosity. This pronounced shear-thinning behavior is indicative of a structured network capable of resisting deformation at rest while flowing readily under application conditions.
In terms of thickening performance, viscosity measurements demonstrated that the SIG system achieves up to twenty times higher viscosity than xanthan gum at equivalent concentrations. Notably, stable and coherent gels were obtained at concentrations as low as 0.05%, highlighting the exceptional efficiency of the system and its potential to reduce overall polymer load in formulations.
The system also demonstrated strong robustness to formulation constraints. Viscosity measurements across a pH range of 4 to 10 confirmed minimal variation in rheological properties, indicating high pH tolerance. Similarly, the addition of electrolytes resulted in limited viscosity loss, confirming the network’s resistance to ionic disruption, which is a known limitation of traditional polysaccharide-based systems.
Emulsion stability tests further demonstrated the robustness of the SIG network. At a concentration of approximately 0.1%, emulsions structured with the SIG system remained stable under centrifugation and accelerated aging conditions, with no visible phase separation. In contrast, emulsions prepared with xanthan gum or glucomannan at the same concentration exhibited clear instability. This behavior can be attributed to the increased yield stress and microviscosity around dispersed droplets, which limit mobility and coalescence.
Particle suspension studies showed that insoluble particles remained uniformly dispersed within the SIG gel matrix over time, even at low concentrations. This contrasts with conventional natural thickeners, which require significantly higher dosages to achieve similar suspension performance, often at the expense of texture quality.
Sensory evaluation results were consistent with instrumental findings. The SIG-based gels were characterized by low tackiness, absence of stringiness, and a pronounced “water-release” effect upon application, reflecting rapid structural breakdown under shear. These attributes closely resemble those of carbomer-based systems, suggesting that the SIG technology successfully replicates the sensory performance of synthetic polymers while maintaining natural origin.
Conclusion
The methodological evaluation of the optimized Synergistic Interaction Gel system demonstrates that controlled molecular engineering of polysaccharide interactions can significantly enhance the structural and functional performance of natural gelling agents. Through combined microstructural analysis, rheological characterization, and application-based testing, the SIG technology has been shown to deliver high thickening efficiency, strong viscoelastic properties, and robust stability under challenging formulation conditions.
The ability to achieve these results at very low concentrations, while maintaining desirable sensory attributes and compatibility with a wide range of formulation parameters, represents a major advancement in the design of natural-origin gelling systems. This approach provides a scientifically validated pathway to bridge the gap between synthetic performance and natural sustainability in personal care formulations.
Day 2 Session 7 | 14h30-15h00
Beyond Cleansing: Multifunctional Glycolipids for
Advanced Personal Care Formulations
Jacques Strydom
Evonik Africa
Advanced Personal Care Formulations
Jacques Strydom
Evonik Africa
|
Biography
Jacques is a Chemical Engineer with a career dedicated to cosmetic R&D, formulation science, and product development. He currently serves as Business Manager for Care Solutions at Evonik, where he leads innovation and growth initiatives across Sub Saharan Africa. A Praesidium Member of the IFSCC, and Past President of Coschem, Jacques remains actively involved in advancing cosmetic science through education. Historically, he served as a lecturer in Surface Chemistry and Basic Chemistry for the Coschem education course. With a background spanning R&D leadership, formulation development, technical marketing, and commercial strategy, he is passionate about translating scientific advancements into impactful personal care solutions for the region. Jacques recently emigrated to New Zealand and plans to expand his knowledge and experience into the Asia Pacific region in the near future. |
Abstract
Surfactant technology in personal care formulations is undergoing significant advancement, with recent innovations increasingly leveraging biotechnological processes to enable the development of next-generation ingredients, notably glycolipid biosurfactants. These ingredients are produced via microbial fermentation. This biotechnological production pathway enables scalable and consistent manufacturing of high-performance surfactants while substantially reducing environmental burden compared to conventional petrochemical routes.
As a result, glycolipid-based surfactants align with both formulators’ technical requirements and evolving consumer expectations, offering naturally derived, biodegradable, and intrinsically mild alternatives produced under sustainability-oriented conditions.
From a functional perspective, glycolipids demonstrate effective cleansing efficacy against lipophilic soils such as sebum and decorative cosmetics, while maintaining a favorable irritation profile, as evidenced by in vitro red blood cell (RBC) hemolysis assays. In addition, these biosurfactants can synergistically enhance the deposition efficiency and functional performance of cationic conditioning polymers and lipid (refatting) components, thereby contributing to improved overall formulation performance.
Deposition behavior was monitored using streaming potential measurements (Charge Analyzing System) in comparison to a sensorial hair swatch test. Sensory performance was assessed on standardized, pre-damaged human hair tresses by trained panelists evaluating combability, disentangling, and wet feel following treatment with test formulations under controlled conditions.
Another example for deposition effects from rhamnolipids is the deposition of refatting agents like Glyceryl Oleate. Deposition and efficacy on skin were investigated in a controlled panel study using standardized pre-treatment, application, and sampling procedures, with lipid deposition quantified before and after rinse-off application by LC–MS analysis.
Preliminary investigations into skin microbiome interactions further indicate that glycolipid-based surfactants exert minimal perturbation on the resident microbial communities. This suggests their suitability for incorporation into microbiome-conscious formulations, supporting the development of next-generation personal care products with enhanced skin compatibility and holistic performance profiles.
Surfactant technology in personal care formulations is undergoing significant advancement, with recent innovations increasingly leveraging biotechnological processes to enable the development of next-generation ingredients, notably glycolipid biosurfactants. These ingredients are produced via microbial fermentation. This biotechnological production pathway enables scalable and consistent manufacturing of high-performance surfactants while substantially reducing environmental burden compared to conventional petrochemical routes.
As a result, glycolipid-based surfactants align with both formulators’ technical requirements and evolving consumer expectations, offering naturally derived, biodegradable, and intrinsically mild alternatives produced under sustainability-oriented conditions.
From a functional perspective, glycolipids demonstrate effective cleansing efficacy against lipophilic soils such as sebum and decorative cosmetics, while maintaining a favorable irritation profile, as evidenced by in vitro red blood cell (RBC) hemolysis assays. In addition, these biosurfactants can synergistically enhance the deposition efficiency and functional performance of cationic conditioning polymers and lipid (refatting) components, thereby contributing to improved overall formulation performance.
Deposition behavior was monitored using streaming potential measurements (Charge Analyzing System) in comparison to a sensorial hair swatch test. Sensory performance was assessed on standardized, pre-damaged human hair tresses by trained panelists evaluating combability, disentangling, and wet feel following treatment with test formulations under controlled conditions.
Another example for deposition effects from rhamnolipids is the deposition of refatting agents like Glyceryl Oleate. Deposition and efficacy on skin were investigated in a controlled panel study using standardized pre-treatment, application, and sampling procedures, with lipid deposition quantified before and after rinse-off application by LC–MS analysis.
Preliminary investigations into skin microbiome interactions further indicate that glycolipid-based surfactants exert minimal perturbation on the resident microbial communities. This suggests their suitability for incorporation into microbiome-conscious formulations, supporting the development of next-generation personal care products with enhanced skin compatibility and holistic performance profiles.
Day 2 Session 7 | 15h00-15h30
Targeting Neurogenic Inflammation in Climate-Stressed Skin:
A Neurocosmetic Approach Based on OrganicScutellaria Alpina Extract
Viviana Sanchez
dsm-firmenich, Dubai, UAE
A Neurocosmetic Approach Based on OrganicScutellaria Alpina Extract
Viviana Sanchez
dsm-firmenich, Dubai, UAE
|
Biography
Viviana is a Colombian Chemical Engineer with an MBA and a specialization in Sales and Marketing. She has more than 17 years of experience in the personal care industry, combining technical expertise in formulation with a strong commercial and business development background. She began her career in Colombia as a cosmetic formulator, developing hands-on experience in product development and cosmetic formulations. In 2012, she joined Croda Colombia, where she held commercial roles supporting the growth of the personal care business. In 2016, she relocated to Dubai and joined Croda Middle East, managing customers and business development activities across the Middle East region until 2024. Since 2024, Viviana has been part of dsm-firmenich as Senior Account Manager for Beauty & Care, leading commercial activities across the Africa, Middle East, and Turkey (AMET) region. Her work focuses on driving sustainable growth, developing strategic partnerships, and bringing science-based innovations to market. Passionate about innovation and sustainability, Viviana is dedicated to helping customers create differentiated beauty solutions that address evolving consumer needs while delivering meaningful value across diverse regional markets. |
Abstract
The increasing intensity and frequency of climate-related environmental stressors, including heat waves, ultraviolet radiation, and pollution, are emerging as critical determinants of skin health. These factors trigger complex biological responses that extend beyond classical dermatological pathways and involve bidirectional communication between the skin and the nervous system, known as the skin–mind axis. This neurocutaneous interface integrates environmental signals, immune responses, and sensory perception, contributing to both physiological skin alterations and subjective sensations such as discomfort, irritation, and stress.
Exposure to environmental stressors induces oxidative stress and activates neurogenic inflammation, characterized by the release of neuropeptides and cytokines. Key mediators involved in this process include calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP), interleukin-33 (IL-33), and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), which promote vasodilation, pruritus, and immune activation. In parallel, activation of transient receptor potential channels such as TRPV1 amplifies nociceptive signaling, leading to heightened skin sensitivity and discomfort. These responses are linked to central nervous system signaling through peripheral nerve activation, reinforcing a feedback loop between skin condition and emotional state. The resulting cycle contributes to barrier dysfunction, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), premature aging, and reduced skin resilience.
Neurocosmetic approaches aim to disrupt this cycle by targeting both inflammatory and neurosensory pathways. In this context, plant-derived bioactives offer a promising strategy due to their multifaceted chemical composition and adaptation to environmental stress. Alpine plants represent a unique source of bioactive compounds, as they thrive under extreme conditions such as high UV exposure, temperature fluctuations, and dehydration. These stressors stimulate the production of secondary metabolites, notably flavonoids with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The organic Scutellaria alpina extract investigated in this study is derived from the aerial parts of a high-altitude skullcap plant sustainably produced using certified organic cultivation. It supports biodiversity in alpine regions and fair-trade practices through Fair for Life certification, including long-term partnerships and minimum guaranteed income for farmers. Under these conditions, the plant develops a distinctive phytochemical profile enriched in flavonoids, including scutellarin, apigenin-7-O-glucuronide, luteolin derivatives, chrysin conjugates, and wogonoside. These compounds are known for their capacity to neutralize reactive oxygen species, modulate inflammatory pathways, and interact with neuronal signaling systems.
Experimental data demonstrate that Scutellaria alpina responds adaptively to simulated climate stress. Under elevated temperature conditions, the plant increases the synthesis of key flavonoids such as chrysin-7-O-glucuronide and wogonoside, reinforcing its antioxidant and protective capabilities. This adaptive metabolic response provides a scientific rationale for its application in climate-responsive skincare formulations.
At the cellular level, the organic Scutellaria alpina extract exhibits a dual mechanism of action targeting both inflammatory and neurosensory pathways. In vitro studies using co-culture models of keratinocytes and neuronal cells demonstrate significant inhibition of neurogenic inflammation markers, including CGRP, IL-33, and TSLP, following TRPV1 activation. This indicates a capacity to modulate neuroinflammatory cascades and reduce neuronal hypersensitivity.
Concurrently, the extract activates γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA-b) receptors at low concentrations, suggesting a direct interaction with cutaneous neuroreceptors involved in sensory perception. This activation is associated with a calming effect on the skin and contributes to the inhibition of TRPV1-mediated signaling. Furthermore, the extract significantly enhances the production of β-endorphin in keratinocytes, a neuropeptide associated with pain modulation and improved mood perception. Together, these effects support a neurocosmetic mechanism that alleviates discomfort while promoting positive sensory experiences.
Additional in vitro analyses confirm strong antioxidant activity, with the extract demonstrating superior free radical scavenging capacity compared to reference botanical antioxidants, as well as protection against lipid peroxidation. At the gene expression level, the extract upregulates markers associated with barrier integrity and innate defense, including claudin-7 and beta-defensin, indicating reinforcement of epidermal cohesion and resilience.
The biological relevance of these mechanisms is supported by in vivo findings in subjects with sensitive skin exposed to controlled heat stress. Clinical evaluations show significant improvements in parameters associated with skin resilience, including reductions in TEWL, erythema, and microcirculatory reactivity. The extract reduces heat-induced redness and normalizes blood flow responses, reflecting attenuation of neurovascular inflammation. Furthermore, it accelerates thermal recovery following stress, suggesting enhanced homeostatic regulation.
Beyond physiological effects, emotional wellbeing was assessed using nonverbal methodologies designed to capture neuropsychological responses. The findings indicate significant improvement in perceived comfort, safety, and calmness, supporting the concept that modulation of the skin–mind axis can translate into measurable psychological benefits.
In conclusion, the organic Scutellaria alpina extract represents a novel neurocosmetic approach to addressing climate-induced skin stress. By combining antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and neuromodulatory activities, it effectively targets the biological and sensory dimensions of skin health. This integrative mechanism highlights the relevance of plant adaptogens in the development of next-generation skincare solutions designed to enhance resilience in an era of environmental and emotional challenges.
This innovative and scientifically substantiated bioactive was recently recognized for its sustainability profile, receiving the Gold Award for Best Sustainable Ingredient at in-cosmetics Global 2026.
The increasing intensity and frequency of climate-related environmental stressors, including heat waves, ultraviolet radiation, and pollution, are emerging as critical determinants of skin health. These factors trigger complex biological responses that extend beyond classical dermatological pathways and involve bidirectional communication between the skin and the nervous system, known as the skin–mind axis. This neurocutaneous interface integrates environmental signals, immune responses, and sensory perception, contributing to both physiological skin alterations and subjective sensations such as discomfort, irritation, and stress.
Exposure to environmental stressors induces oxidative stress and activates neurogenic inflammation, characterized by the release of neuropeptides and cytokines. Key mediators involved in this process include calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP), interleukin-33 (IL-33), and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), which promote vasodilation, pruritus, and immune activation. In parallel, activation of transient receptor potential channels such as TRPV1 amplifies nociceptive signaling, leading to heightened skin sensitivity and discomfort. These responses are linked to central nervous system signaling through peripheral nerve activation, reinforcing a feedback loop between skin condition and emotional state. The resulting cycle contributes to barrier dysfunction, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), premature aging, and reduced skin resilience.
Neurocosmetic approaches aim to disrupt this cycle by targeting both inflammatory and neurosensory pathways. In this context, plant-derived bioactives offer a promising strategy due to their multifaceted chemical composition and adaptation to environmental stress. Alpine plants represent a unique source of bioactive compounds, as they thrive under extreme conditions such as high UV exposure, temperature fluctuations, and dehydration. These stressors stimulate the production of secondary metabolites, notably flavonoids with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The organic Scutellaria alpina extract investigated in this study is derived from the aerial parts of a high-altitude skullcap plant sustainably produced using certified organic cultivation. It supports biodiversity in alpine regions and fair-trade practices through Fair for Life certification, including long-term partnerships and minimum guaranteed income for farmers. Under these conditions, the plant develops a distinctive phytochemical profile enriched in flavonoids, including scutellarin, apigenin-7-O-glucuronide, luteolin derivatives, chrysin conjugates, and wogonoside. These compounds are known for their capacity to neutralize reactive oxygen species, modulate inflammatory pathways, and interact with neuronal signaling systems.
Experimental data demonstrate that Scutellaria alpina responds adaptively to simulated climate stress. Under elevated temperature conditions, the plant increases the synthesis of key flavonoids such as chrysin-7-O-glucuronide and wogonoside, reinforcing its antioxidant and protective capabilities. This adaptive metabolic response provides a scientific rationale for its application in climate-responsive skincare formulations.
At the cellular level, the organic Scutellaria alpina extract exhibits a dual mechanism of action targeting both inflammatory and neurosensory pathways. In vitro studies using co-culture models of keratinocytes and neuronal cells demonstrate significant inhibition of neurogenic inflammation markers, including CGRP, IL-33, and TSLP, following TRPV1 activation. This indicates a capacity to modulate neuroinflammatory cascades and reduce neuronal hypersensitivity.
Concurrently, the extract activates γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA-b) receptors at low concentrations, suggesting a direct interaction with cutaneous neuroreceptors involved in sensory perception. This activation is associated with a calming effect on the skin and contributes to the inhibition of TRPV1-mediated signaling. Furthermore, the extract significantly enhances the production of β-endorphin in keratinocytes, a neuropeptide associated with pain modulation and improved mood perception. Together, these effects support a neurocosmetic mechanism that alleviates discomfort while promoting positive sensory experiences.
Additional in vitro analyses confirm strong antioxidant activity, with the extract demonstrating superior free radical scavenging capacity compared to reference botanical antioxidants, as well as protection against lipid peroxidation. At the gene expression level, the extract upregulates markers associated with barrier integrity and innate defense, including claudin-7 and beta-defensin, indicating reinforcement of epidermal cohesion and resilience.
The biological relevance of these mechanisms is supported by in vivo findings in subjects with sensitive skin exposed to controlled heat stress. Clinical evaluations show significant improvements in parameters associated with skin resilience, including reductions in TEWL, erythema, and microcirculatory reactivity. The extract reduces heat-induced redness and normalizes blood flow responses, reflecting attenuation of neurovascular inflammation. Furthermore, it accelerates thermal recovery following stress, suggesting enhanced homeostatic regulation.
Beyond physiological effects, emotional wellbeing was assessed using nonverbal methodologies designed to capture neuropsychological responses. The findings indicate significant improvement in perceived comfort, safety, and calmness, supporting the concept that modulation of the skin–mind axis can translate into measurable psychological benefits.
In conclusion, the organic Scutellaria alpina extract represents a novel neurocosmetic approach to addressing climate-induced skin stress. By combining antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and neuromodulatory activities, it effectively targets the biological and sensory dimensions of skin health. This integrative mechanism highlights the relevance of plant adaptogens in the development of next-generation skincare solutions designed to enhance resilience in an era of environmental and emotional challenges.
This innovative and scientifically substantiated bioactive was recently recognized for its sustainability profile, receiving the Gold Award for Best Sustainable Ingredient at in-cosmetics Global 2026.
Day 2 Session 7 | 15h30-15h45
Closing Address
Lee-Ann Raaff, SMU, South Africa
Vice President, Coschem 2026
Lee-Ann Raaff, SMU, South Africa
Vice President, Coschem 2026
|
On behalf of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to everyone who attended and participated in this year's conference. Your presence, enthusiasm, and commitment to advancing the cosmetic science industry played a significant role in making the event a remarkable success.'
We would like to offer special thanks to all our exhibitors, speakers, and industry partners, whose innovation and expertise continue to drive progress within the cosmetics and personal care sector. The valuable knowledge, technologies, and solutions showcased during the conference provided attendees with insights into the latest industry developments and future trends. Your participation helped create a dynamic platform for knowledge exchange, professional development, and business growth. The success of the conference would not have been possible without your dedication and involvement. A special thank you to our Scientific Committee, and especially to our Chairperson, Beverley Gardner (who also served as the MC), and Co-Chair, Wayne van Wyk, for your incredible hard work and commitment to making the Conference a success. We truly appreciate the time, energy and dedication you have given to the Society. Your commitment and passion are what help make our Conference such a success, and we are incredibly grateful for all that you do. As we reflect on this successful gathering, we are encouraged by the strong sense of collaboration and innovation demonstrated by all attendees. Thank you for being part of this outstanding event. We look forward to welcoming you to the 50th Anniversary of Society of Cosmetic Chemists Association next year, as we continue to advance cosmetic science together. Thank you Lee-Ann Raaff |
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Header - Microsoft Designer AI. Cosmetic, hyper realistic, simple and clean petri dish, blue, cosmetic jars and tubes, sciences, laboratory, ethnic female. Microsoft Designer, generated August 2024.
Microsoft Designer AI. Cosmetic manufacturing, hyper realistic, simple and clean petri dish, blue and green, cosmetic jars and tubes, lipsticks. Microsoft Designer, generated January 2025.
Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.
Microsoft Designer AI. Cosmetic manufacturing, hyper realistic, simple and clean petri dish, blue and green, cosmetic jars and tubes, lipsticks. Microsoft Designer, generated January 2025.
Copyright © 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa. All rights reserved.